"Shirumichu, Hamahiga Island"

The Shirumichu Cave

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Shirumichu Shrine

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.745	E 127 57.578

Shirumichu シルミチュー

Up on a hillside in Hamahiga lies a very sacred cave referred to as Shirumichu. It is said to be the once dwelling place of the first Ryukyu Gods, Amamichu and Shirumichu. Around new years, it was noted that noros, Okinawan female priestesses, would come here to pay their respects. Traditionally, they would bring a small stone from the beach and place it in a pot inside the cave. This custom may still well be alive today. Also inside the cave is what is referred to as a 'female stone'. Women and couples often come here to pray for fertility. Around 1918 (Taishō Era, Taishō 6), the location was recognized by the Japanese Government as a sacred site. A stone tablet sign marks the occasion.

Entrance inside the cave. There is no sign that forbids you to go in the cave. Though there is gate, it may or may not be locked. Use extreme etiquette if you decide to walk inside. Noros are not the only ones that come here to pray. You will often see elderly people (especially, elderly women) come here to pay homage as well. It is best to only stay inside for about 15-20 seconds if there are people waiting.

Etiquette. Sightseers need to be very conscious not to impede those who come here to pray. All those who do take priority. Please do not take pictures of prayer sessions unless given permission to do so. In fact, if there happens to be some kind of prayer ceremony in progress, it is best to leave and come back at a later time. Some of these prayer ceremonies are extremely private. Generally, when in the area, keep conversation in a very respectful and low volume. This is an area of meditation for some.

Taking photographs. There are no signs forbidding photographs inside the cave. However, a local Okinawan said to use good judgment. This particular cave should not be viewed as a place of adventure. It is best to gauge your surroundings first.

The Grave of Amamichu. The Grave of Amamichu (and Shirumichu?) is within a short driving distance from this location. See map above. The proximity gives life that there is a much larger connection within Hamahiga and the origins of the first Okinawan people.

Epilogue. Hamahiga is an island full of mysteries, and perhaps there are some go deeper than what is currently open to the public. In a future article, we'll delve inside the mind of one Hamahiga resident and a place that looks all too familiar to one of the most sacred sites here in all of Okinawa – Seifa Utaki.

Source of Information. Explanation signed in Japanese on location.

Author's Note.
1. The meaning and significance of the noro's small beach stone is not exactly certain. 
2. The fertility stone could not positively be identified, but it is believed to be the one that is shaped like an elephant's head from its side. It is a very shiny stalagmite/stalactite type of stone that stands out among the rest. 
3. Kudaka-jima is widely believed to be the location where the first Okinawan civilization began. A tour guide was asked about the relationship between Kudaka and Hamahiga. She stated that some believe the gods later went to Hamahiga. 
4. Amamichu and Shirumichu are sometimes referred to as Amamikiyo and Shinerikiyo, respectively.

Directions. Hamahiga is accessible by vehicle. As soon as you cross the Kaichu-dori Bridge (on Highway 10 off the Katsuren Peninsula) you will see signs directing you to Hamahiga. Once you arrive on Hamahiga, you will make a left turn heading towards the eastern side of Hamahiga. After you pass the Amamichu Grave Site look for a toilet facility on the right. Take the first immediate right after this facility. This is the start of the Blue Vehicle Route. From there you will see signs directing you to 'Shirumichu' sacred site. Near the end of the route, you will see a large parking area near a boat port. You will see the trail entrance to the Shirumichu Shrine location.

Other places of interest nearby. Amamichu's Grave, Gateway to the Other Side, Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Off-the-Beaten Path - Hamahiga.

"Gateway to the Other Side? Hamahiga Island"

Gateway to the 'Other Side'? A view of Hamahiga at low tide.

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'Gateway' to the Other Side? Hamahiga Island

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.813	E 127 57.594

       
       *GPS data is to the parking lot


Gateway to the 'Other Side'? Hamahiga Island

There are many, many beautiful places here on Okinawa, and Hamahiga Island ranks very high among them. But to understand the intrinsic beauty of Hamahiga, it's imperative to see it through its historical context. This is but a small prelude into the mysteries and legends of Hamahiga Island.

The Okinawans have a term that describes a world, far and beyond on the 'other side'. It is a world in which the gods and spirits live; a world connected and yet separated, only by the sea. In Okinawan dialect this is referred to as 'Nirai-kanai', and is steeped heavily in the Okinawan psyche...and on Hamahiga Island, this belief is very much alive, both in nature and in the people of Hamahiga. Along with Kudaka Jima, Hamahiga ranks as one of the most sacred islands in the Ryukyu Archipelago. It is believed that the first 'creators' of the Okinawan civilization, Amamichu and Shirumichu†, settled here many, many years ago*. In fact, the final resting place of Amamichu is believed to be in a small crypt just off the eastern shores of Hamahiga. And further south, lies the Shirumichu Shrine, a cave elevated on a rocky hill honoring these deities. There are other places on Hamahiga that are mysterious and steeped in local legend, some very recent and soon to be discussed. But as you walk around the natural landscape of Hamahiga, one cannot help to imagine if there is a connection with Hamahiga and the 'other side'.

The 'Gateway'. The title is the just a metaphorical interpretation surrounding the breathtaking beauty and the 'laws of nature' at work throughout Hamahiga, juxtaposed with its history and the belief of 'Nirai-kanai' and animism. It is important to understand this link in order to understand how some Okinawans view and connect with the 'spiritual world'.

Just as you arrive at the Shirumichu Shrine parking area (marked by the Green Thumbtack in the map), you will see a natural corridor in-between two large rocky mounds as seen in the above picture. A gateway perhaps? Having a grasp of Hamahiga's history, one can be inspired to imagine many things. Nevertheless, it leaves you to wonder; what lies beyond the 'other side'? At high tide, it's too difficult to venture safely on foot. But at low tide, your curiosity can be set free. As you move further through the corridor, you will see (to the right) a 'natural' sidewalk made of coral that can only be used safely during low tide. Don't expect to see a miraculous statue or pot of gold on the other end...just a sense of peace and satisfaction.

If this is indeed a gateway, it does beg the question; does the doorway to 'Nirai-kanai' have a connection with the change of tides? Having observed some religious practices here on Okinawa, it wouldn't be all that surprising if some Okinawans share that view. Just make sure you return before the tide comes back... or you will be stuck on the other side.

Author's note. The natural corridor or 'Gateway', described above, is just an impression inspired by local legends of Hamahiga and not based on any specific beliefs held by the local Okinawans (that I know of). If you are in love with Okinawa's natural landscape, then the 'gateway' described above is a place you will want to venture out to at low tide.

Map Information. The Amamichu Grave, Shirumichu Shrine, and the 'Gateway' all have a placemarks at their respective locations in the map above. The natural corridor or 'Gateway' is marked by the Green Route marker. The Pink Route marker marks the walking route for the Shirumichu Shrine. The GPS information above is to the parking lot also designated by the Green Thumbtack.

Tide information. Low tide is the best time to venture out through the corridor safely (and to visit the Amamichu Grave site). The following link is tide information around Ikei Island which is the closest island to Hamahiga: http://magicseaweed.com/Ikei-Surf-Report/3392/. Other tide information will vary around Okinawa Prefecture.

Directions. You can drive to Hamahiga from the Katsuren Peninsula via Highway 10. You will see signs directing you to Hamahiga Island. You will have to cross the another bridge to enter Hamahiga. Once you arrive on the island, you will turn left or veer east. The Amamichu Grave will just be off the road on a medium size coral mound next to the shore (see map for Pink Balloon icon). The most difficult place to find is the Shirumichu Shrine. Please use this LandMark as the turn-off point to the shrine also seen in the map above. This is where the designated Blue Route begins. The LandMark will be a small restroom facility. Along the way you will see these historical signs pointing you to the way. Once you arrive at the parking lot, it will not be immediate apparent that there is a shrine in the nearby area. You will see a path off to the woods straight ahead. See Pink Route in the above map. It will lead you to the first Torii Gate and then to a set of stairs.

Source. Okinawa Diaspora (Okinawa's first creators), pg 145, Ronald Nakasone, University Hawaii Press 2002. Grave of Amamichu, http://en.okinawa2go.jp/is/OCVB1EN0020120902/show. Definition, Nirai-kanai (also spelled nireekanee), Okinawan English Wordbook, Mitsuyu Sakihara, University Hawaii Press 2006.

Related articles. Azama Port: Gateway to Kudaka Island. In the Beginning...there was Kudaka.

Other places of interest nearby. Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga, The Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Amamichu's Grave, Shirumichu.

† Amamichu and Shirumichu are sometimes referred to as Amamikiyo and Shinerikiyo, respectively.
*Okinawa legends may vary about the origins of the first Ryukyu gods. It is widely believed that Kudaka is where the gods first descended upon. When asked about the relationship between Hamahiga and Kudaka, a tour guide offered one interpretation. She said some believe the gods first descended to Kudaka and then later settled at Hamahiga.