"Kagami-iwa, The Mirror Rock"

Kagami-iwa, the Mirror Rock

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

The Mirror Rock and Shirumichu-reijo

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.769	E 127 57.574

Kagami-iwa, The Mirror Rock - Hamahiga Island

Not too far from the Shirumichu Cave is a place that just leaves you in awe. The large slanted rock you see above is called 'Kagami-iwa' meaning 'The Mirror Rock'. It has a striking resemblance to one of the most sacred sites here on Okinawa, Seifa Utaki. It is here that the land owner, Mr Nohina, believes are the images of two of the most sacred figures in Ryukyuan Mythology: Shirumichu and Amamichu, male and female deities said to be the originators of the Ryukyu Islands. This should be of no surprise considering Hamahiga is purported to be one of the dwelling places of the first ancestors. At first, the images are difficult to make out, but if you look carefully – and with a little imagination, you can see two figures embedded on the side of the wall. To get a visual orientation, click the following links in sequence: Picture 1 (both images), Picture 2 (both images and Mr. Nohina), Picture 3 (Shirumichu), Picture 4 (Amamichu). According to Mr. Nohina, the optimal time to see the apparitions is generally between May and September around 2 o'clock where the afternoon sun reflects against 'The Mirror Rock' at just the right angle, revealing the ghostly images.

So why do people come here? Probably for most, it is merely out of curiosity. But according to Mr. Nohina, couples do come here to pray for a long and healthy companionship. Some come here to pray for fertility (it can be said that the image of Amamichu is holding a baby). For whatever the reason, people do come...but this wasn't always the case. Mr. Nohina explains that residents long ago on Hamahiga avoided this place because the images (thought to be ghost) would frighten them away.

Other places to see. On the same grounds you will see what Mr. Nohina refers to as the 'Turtle Cave', named for its turle-like head. It is a very tiny cave and inside, are strategically placed crystal stones that illuminate when the morning sun hits the cave entrance. The following link is a photograph he took during the illumination. See photo. He says between 8 and 9 o'clock is when the 'magic' happens.

Not too far from the 'Mirror Rock' you will see another impressive rock wall that will amaze you. Click here to view. And further up the trail is a carved stone stairway that takes you up high where you can get a great view of Hamahiga Island from atop.

The Endless Questions. So how does a place like this come to existence with so little attention in the public eye, especially being so close to the Shirumichu Cave, one of the holiest sites on Okinawa? Mr. Nohina is originally from Miyako Island. He moved in 2002 in search for peace – the same kind of peace you would find...let's say, on Kudaka Jima. After a long search, he had found this place on Hamahiga, purchased the land from the previous owner, and renamed the entire area Shirumichu-reijo (Shirumichu Spiritual Place). This takes an incredible amount of energy, passion, and wealth to do something like this. But Mr. Nohina is a Okinawan historical enthusiast. He breathes Okinawan folklore. After doing much research on the area, he decided to open it up to the public in 2007.

When asked, do noros (Okinawan female priestesses) come here to pray? He eluded that many would probably not out of pride because they never heard of this place before. This is understandable. It would be kind of embarrassing not to know about a place of this magnitude being so close to the Shirumichu Cave, one of most revered religious sites a noro can pilgrimage to. One can conclude that this area must have been a highly kept secret for a very long time — which is hard to imagine cause it's literally within walking distance from the first Torii Gate of the Shirumichu Cave. And what is the connection with Uruma City's Board of Education, normally in charge of explaining such places within their jurisdiction? Official references, if any exist, have not yet been found. The investigation continues...

Conclusion. So what exactly is 'The Mirror Rock' and Shirumichu-reijo? No doubt the landscape is incredible and has 'Animism' written all over it. And being so close to a sacred site here on Okinawa, it would be hard to imagine a place like this not having any spiritual significance. You may find no answers here, just one man's belief. But when you see 'The Mirror Rock', you just can't help...but wonder.

Hours: Daily, 10am to 6pm. Recommend you call before you go. The estate is run by Mr.Nohina and one other person, and possibly may not be available during certain times for unforeseeable reasons. (If you wish to see the crystal stone illuminate inside the small 'Turtle Cave' then you will have to arrange that with Mr. Nohina. Normally the illumination happens between 8 and 9 am).

Fee: 200 Yen per person (You will receive a 200 Yen coupon in return which gives you a free ice tea or 200 yen coupon towards another refreshment higher in price).

Phone Number: 098 977 7157.

Recommendation. Mr. Nohina, does not speak any English. You may want to bring a friend fluent in Japanese should you have any questions, preferably one who knowledgeable in Okinawan Hogen and the Miyako dialect.

Directions.Hamahiga is accessible by vehicle. As soon as you cross the Kaichu-dori Bridge (on Highway 10 off the Katsuren Peninsula) you will see signs directing you to Hamahiga. Once you arrive on Hamahiga, you will make a left turn heading towards the eastern side of Hamahiga. After you pass the Amamichu Grave Site look for a toilet facility on the right. Take the first immediate right after this facility. This is the start of the Blue Vehicle Route (See map above). From there you will see signs directing you to 'Shirumichu' sacred site. Near the end of the route, you will see a large parking area near a boat port. The entrance to Mr. Nohina's residence is across this parking area. Look for a sign board pointing you the way.

"Shirumichu, Hamahiga Island"

The Shirumichu Cave

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

Shirumichu Shrine

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.745	E 127 57.578

Shirumichu シルミチュー

Up on a hillside in Hamahiga lies a very sacred cave referred to as Shirumichu. It is said to be the once dwelling place of the first Ryukyu Gods, Amamichu and Shirumichu. Around new years, it was noted that noros, Okinawan female priestesses, would come here to pay their respects. Traditionally, they would bring a small stone from the beach and place it in a pot inside the cave. This custom may still well be alive today. Also inside the cave is what is referred to as a 'female stone'. Women and couples often come here to pray for fertility. Around 1918 (Taishō Era, Taishō 6), the location was recognized by the Japanese Government as a sacred site. A stone tablet sign marks the occasion.

Entrance inside the cave. There is no sign that forbids you to go in the cave. Though there is gate, it may or may not be locked. Use extreme etiquette if you decide to walk inside. Noros are not the only ones that come here to pray. You will often see elderly people (especially, elderly women) come here to pay homage as well. It is best to only stay inside for about 15-20 seconds if there are people waiting.

Etiquette. Sightseers need to be very conscious not to impede those who come here to pray. All those who do take priority. Please do not take pictures of prayer sessions unless given permission to do so. In fact, if there happens to be some kind of prayer ceremony in progress, it is best to leave and come back at a later time. Some of these prayer ceremonies are extremely private. Generally, when in the area, keep conversation in a very respectful and low volume. This is an area of meditation for some.

Taking photographs. There are no signs forbidding photographs inside the cave. However, a local Okinawan said to use good judgment. This particular cave should not be viewed as a place of adventure. It is best to gauge your surroundings first.

The Grave of Amamichu. The Grave of Amamichu (and Shirumichu?) is within a short driving distance from this location. See map above. The proximity gives life that there is a much larger connection within Hamahiga and the origins of the first Okinawan people.

Epilogue. Hamahiga is an island full of mysteries, and perhaps there are some go deeper than what is currently open to the public. In a future article, we'll delve inside the mind of one Hamahiga resident and a place that looks all too familiar to one of the most sacred sites here in all of Okinawa – Seifa Utaki.

Source of Information. Explanation signed in Japanese on location.

Author's Note.
1. The meaning and significance of the noro's small beach stone is not exactly certain. 
2. The fertility stone could not positively be identified, but it is believed to be the one that is shaped like an elephant's head from its side. It is a very shiny stalagmite/stalactite type of stone that stands out among the rest. 
3. Kudaka-jima is widely believed to be the location where the first Okinawan civilization began. A tour guide was asked about the relationship between Kudaka and Hamahiga. She stated that some believe the gods later went to Hamahiga. 
4. Amamichu and Shirumichu are sometimes referred to as Amamikiyo and Shinerikiyo, respectively.

Directions. Hamahiga is accessible by vehicle. As soon as you cross the Kaichu-dori Bridge (on Highway 10 off the Katsuren Peninsula) you will see signs directing you to Hamahiga. Once you arrive on Hamahiga, you will make a left turn heading towards the eastern side of Hamahiga. After you pass the Amamichu Grave Site look for a toilet facility on the right. Take the first immediate right after this facility. This is the start of the Blue Vehicle Route. From there you will see signs directing you to 'Shirumichu' sacred site. Near the end of the route, you will see a large parking area near a boat port. You will see the trail entrance to the Shirumichu Shrine location.

Other places of interest nearby. Amamichu's Grave, Gateway to the Other Side, Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Off-the-Beaten Path - Hamahiga.

"The Grave of Amamichu"

The Grave of Amamichu

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

The Grave of Amamichu

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 19.455	E 127 57.982

The Grave of Amamichu

Before there were kings, there were gods – that according to Okinawan legends. The above grave or 'ohaka' houses the remains of Amamichu, the female deity that was one half responsible for creating the first inhabitants of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Her counterpart, Shirumichu – a male deity, was also responsible for establishing the first civilization here on Okinawa. Every year, particularly during the beginning of the New Year, people come here to pray for prosperity. It would not be uncommon to see a noro (priestess) here during special occasions. Women also come here to pray for fertility.

The Grave of Shirumichu? If there is a grave for Amamichu, is there a grave for Shirumichu? Or is that considered part of the Shirumichu Shrine? The name of this site is very specific – Amamichu no Haka, meaning Amamichu's grave (アマミチュー の 墓). The Shirumichu Shrine makes no mention that it is a grave, just that both Amamichu and Shirumichu lived there many, many years ago.

Accessibility. Amamichu's Grave is located at a coral rock pile just off the eastern shores of Hamahiga. There is a stone walkway leading you there, about a 75 meter walk. However, during high tide, the stone walkway disappears under the ocean. Please plan your trip according to tide information. The following link (http://magicseaweed.com/Ikei-Surf-Report/3392/) is tide information for Ikei Island which is a few kilometers to the north of Hamahiga. This will be the most accurate tide information for that area. Tide information at other parts of Okinawa will vary.

Directions. Hamahiga is accessible by vehicle. As soon as you cross the Kaichu-dori Bridge (on Highway 10 off the Katsuren Peninsula) you will see signs directing you to Hamahiga. The Amamichu Grave lies on the eastern shores of Hamahiga. Look for a very small rock island about 75 meters off the main shores of Hamahiga. Please see map above. You will see a sign board in Japanese at the entrance way to the grave. The grave also stands across from a small rest area.

Related Article. Map It! Okinawa: Gateway to the 'Other Side'? Hamahiga.

Other places of interest nearby. Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga, The Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Shirumichu.

Source of information. Explanation sign on location in Japanese provided by Uruma City. Okinawa Diaspora (Okinawa's first creators), pg 145, Ronald Nakasone, University Hawaii Press 2002.

Note. Amamichu and Shirumichu are sometimes referred to as Amamikiyo and Shinerikiyo, respectively.

"Gateway to the Other Side? Hamahiga Island"

Gateway to the 'Other Side'? A view of Hamahiga at low tide.

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

'Gateway' to the Other Side? Hamahiga Island

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.813	E 127 57.594

       
       *GPS data is to the parking lot


Gateway to the 'Other Side'? Hamahiga Island

There are many, many beautiful places here on Okinawa, and Hamahiga Island ranks very high among them. But to understand the intrinsic beauty of Hamahiga, it's imperative to see it through its historical context. This is but a small prelude into the mysteries and legends of Hamahiga Island.

The Okinawans have a term that describes a world, far and beyond on the 'other side'. It is a world in which the gods and spirits live; a world connected and yet separated, only by the sea. In Okinawan dialect this is referred to as 'Nirai-kanai', and is steeped heavily in the Okinawan psyche...and on Hamahiga Island, this belief is very much alive, both in nature and in the people of Hamahiga. Along with Kudaka Jima, Hamahiga ranks as one of the most sacred islands in the Ryukyu Archipelago. It is believed that the first 'creators' of the Okinawan civilization, Amamichu and Shirumichu†, settled here many, many years ago*. In fact, the final resting place of Amamichu is believed to be in a small crypt just off the eastern shores of Hamahiga. And further south, lies the Shirumichu Shrine, a cave elevated on a rocky hill honoring these deities. There are other places on Hamahiga that are mysterious and steeped in local legend, some very recent and soon to be discussed. But as you walk around the natural landscape of Hamahiga, one cannot help to imagine if there is a connection with Hamahiga and the 'other side'.

The 'Gateway'. The title is the just a metaphorical interpretation surrounding the breathtaking beauty and the 'laws of nature' at work throughout Hamahiga, juxtaposed with its history and the belief of 'Nirai-kanai' and animism. It is important to understand this link in order to understand how some Okinawans view and connect with the 'spiritual world'.

Just as you arrive at the Shirumichu Shrine parking area (marked by the Green Thumbtack in the map), you will see a natural corridor in-between two large rocky mounds as seen in the above picture. A gateway perhaps? Having a grasp of Hamahiga's history, one can be inspired to imagine many things. Nevertheless, it leaves you to wonder; what lies beyond the 'other side'? At high tide, it's too difficult to venture safely on foot. But at low tide, your curiosity can be set free. As you move further through the corridor, you will see (to the right) a 'natural' sidewalk made of coral that can only be used safely during low tide. Don't expect to see a miraculous statue or pot of gold on the other end...just a sense of peace and satisfaction.

If this is indeed a gateway, it does beg the question; does the doorway to 'Nirai-kanai' have a connection with the change of tides? Having observed some religious practices here on Okinawa, it wouldn't be all that surprising if some Okinawans share that view. Just make sure you return before the tide comes back... or you will be stuck on the other side.

Author's note. The natural corridor or 'Gateway', described above, is just an impression inspired by local legends of Hamahiga and not based on any specific beliefs held by the local Okinawans (that I know of). If you are in love with Okinawa's natural landscape, then the 'gateway' described above is a place you will want to venture out to at low tide.

Map Information. The Amamichu Grave, Shirumichu Shrine, and the 'Gateway' all have a placemarks at their respective locations in the map above. The natural corridor or 'Gateway' is marked by the Green Route marker. The Pink Route marker marks the walking route for the Shirumichu Shrine. The GPS information above is to the parking lot also designated by the Green Thumbtack.

Tide information. Low tide is the best time to venture out through the corridor safely (and to visit the Amamichu Grave site). The following link is tide information around Ikei Island which is the closest island to Hamahiga: http://magicseaweed.com/Ikei-Surf-Report/3392/. Other tide information will vary around Okinawa Prefecture.

Directions. You can drive to Hamahiga from the Katsuren Peninsula via Highway 10. You will see signs directing you to Hamahiga Island. You will have to cross the another bridge to enter Hamahiga. Once you arrive on the island, you will turn left or veer east. The Amamichu Grave will just be off the road on a medium size coral mound next to the shore (see map for Pink Balloon icon). The most difficult place to find is the Shirumichu Shrine. Please use this LandMark as the turn-off point to the shrine also seen in the map above. This is where the designated Blue Route begins. The LandMark will be a small restroom facility. Along the way you will see these historical signs pointing you to the way. Once you arrive at the parking lot, it will not be immediate apparent that there is a shrine in the nearby area. You will see a path off to the woods straight ahead. See Pink Route in the above map. It will lead you to the first Torii Gate and then to a set of stairs.

Source. Okinawa Diaspora (Okinawa's first creators), pg 145, Ronald Nakasone, University Hawaii Press 2002. Grave of Amamichu, http://en.okinawa2go.jp/is/OCVB1EN0020120902/show. Definition, Nirai-kanai (also spelled nireekanee), Okinawan English Wordbook, Mitsuyu Sakihara, University Hawaii Press 2006.

Related articles. Azama Port: Gateway to Kudaka Island. In the Beginning...there was Kudaka.

Other places of interest nearby. Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga, The Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Amamichu's Grave, Shirumichu.

† Amamichu and Shirumichu are sometimes referred to as Amamikiyo and Shinerikiyo, respectively.
*Okinawa legends may vary about the origins of the first Ryukyu gods. It is widely believed that Kudaka is where the gods first descended upon. When asked about the relationship between Hamahiga and Kudaka, a tour guide offered one interpretation. She said some believe the gods first descended to Kudaka and then later settled at Hamahiga.

"Hamahiga Beach"

Hamahiga Island Beach

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

Hamahiga Public Beach

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 19.501	E 127 57.080

Hamahiga Beach

On the quiet little island of Hamahiga you will find a nice sandy beach that faces the Katsuren Peninsula. Its white sand and clear blue water gives it a great touch for summer time fun as well as a nice place to unwind with the family throughout the year. Because of its remote location you will likely find it less populated than some of the beaches that are near the more densely populated towns in Okinawa. Grab a towel, cause this is one of the nicest beaches to visit during your stay here on Okinawa. Below are guidelines posted on site (translated in English).

Posted Rules & Guidelines.
1. Lifeguards are not present. Use caution and proper supervision of your children.
2. No diving off the rock jetties.
3. Please clean up after yourself.
4. No fireworks, camp fires, charcoal grills etc.
5. Generators are not allowed (Gasoline, Hazardous Materials etc.)
6. Pets must be on a leash. Please pick up any droppings left by your pets.
7. Because the beach is near a neighborhood, please maintain reasonable noise discipline in the area.

Public Parking. Available.
Bathroom Facilities. Available.
Swim nets. Not Available.

Recommendations. There are very few shaded areas on site. Highly recommend bringing your own equipment for shading.

Directions. Take Highway 10 east (Kaichu-douru Bridge) from the Katsuren Pennisula. You will see visible signs directing you to Hamahiga Island. The route to the beach is straightforward once you arrive on Hamahiga Island. Please see map above.

Other places of interest nearby. Starting point – Off The Beaten Path, Hamahiga, Agari no Utaki, Amamichu's Grave, Shirumichu, The Gateway.

"Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga"

Cliff at Hamahiga Island

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

Off the Beaten Path - Hamahiga

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 19.389	E 127 57.089

Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga

If you happen to be at the beach at Hamahiga Island and like little side ventures while you're there, then there is a small off-the-beaten path that you may like which takes you further south on the western side of the island. If you wanted to walk a family pet, or just like to take a 45 minute round-trip stroll, then this off-the-beaten path isn't soo bad. Along the way you will see a few farms off to the side and a few little interesting coral rock formations. A few fisherman come here every now and then to get away in their own little hide-away in search for the 'big catch'. And if you like taking pictures of butterflies, then you have plenty to keep you occupied. They saturate the flowers along the trail non-stop. Bring a friend, camera, and a bento lunch. You may want to stop for awhile as you soak in the sun. At the end, you will get closer and closer to a very commanding looking cliff-side.

What to bring. Umbrella for shade, bug repellant, sun lotion, water, camera.

Where the path begins. The path starts at the balloon icon you see in the map. It sits next to the southern end of the parking lot. You will notice a make-shift gate prevent cars to go through. This is where you cross.

Warning. As you get closer and closer to the cliff-side you may be tempted to climb up some large coral rocks. These are highly dangerous for climbing. They are not sturdy and have jagged edges which can easily cut through skin.

Other places of interest nearby. Agari no Utaki, Hamahiga Beach, Amamichu's Grave, Shirumichu, The Gateway.

"The Agari no Utaki - Hamahiga Island"

The Agari no Utaki - Hamahiga

View Map It! Okinawa in a larger map

The Agari no Utaki

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 19.605	E 127 57.290

The Agari no Utaki - Hamahiga Island

Hamahiga Island, like Kudaka-jima, is considered to be one of the holiest places on Okinawa. And like Kudaka-jima, Hamahiga's history and legends too are also shrouded in mysticism and mystery. You will find many sacred areas on this tiny island. The one you see above is referred to in Japanese as 'Agari no Utaki' (アガリのウタキ)* which loosely translated means 'The Worshiping Place of the East' in Okinawan dialect. Associated with this holy ground is an Okinawa ritual known as 'Shinugu Matsuri' (シヌグ 祭り) or Shinugu Festival.

The 28th of June and August of the Chinese Lunar Calendar are considered sacred days for this 'Utaki' (place of worship). It is not quite clear why these specific dates were chosen, or if it has anything to do with the Shinugu Festival. Long time ago (dates not provided), it is said that 7-8 people from the Nazan area (southern Ryukyu Kingdom) had fled to Hamahiga seeking protection against follow-on invaders. The villagers were asked to surround the entire island taking them away from their daily activities. How and why these past events led up to the importance of the present day location is not quite clear.

The definition of the Okinawan word, Shinugu, is somewhat ambiguous. An internet search in English (and in some Japanese websites) states that the word means a 'brotherhood of men'. However, this definition is often used in context to describe a 'male dominated' ritual in northern Okinawa in a placed called Ada of Kunigami. That exact definition is used so profusely lending itself to suspect as if it was reiterated and perpetuated by other publications giving life to its meaning. According to the Okinawan-English Wordbook published by the University of Hawaii Press 2006, the term Shinugu is in fact a ritual that is associated with agriculture (see source). The definition verbatim is as follows:

“A rite, usually in the seventh lunar month, of passing from the harvest to the start of a new cycle of planting or for purification and to invoke a rich harvest.”

No where does it mention anything pertaining to a fraternity of men. Furthermore, this definition almost coincides with the June/August dates aforementioned above. It is important to note that rituals (and Okinawa dialect) even on a small island such as Okinawa can vary from village to village. Traditions are handed down from generation to generation often through experience. A Shinugu ritual (and its meaning) in one part of Okinawa may not reflect other such practices elsewhere. The Shinugu ritual in Ada, should not be used as the 'Gold Standard'  that defines other Shinugu rituals elsewhere.

The tomb. Behind the Agari no Utaki are a set of steps that go up to what appears to be a small tomb that seems to have some religious importance. It is not clear who's remains are inside.

When you visit. When you visit, it is likely that you will see other visitors and possibly some of a religious nature, such as Noro (priestess). It is understood that curious visitors come and go, but if you happen to arrive during a religious ceremony it is wise to return at another time, unless given special permission to stay. Even to ask may be a little intrusive. As stated before in a previous post, this kind of 'visible restraint' earns a lot of respect. Every situation must be gauged. There are some that are quite open to sharing values and beliefs, while there some who are extremely private.

Directions. The location is not difficult to find. Once you cross the bridge from Henza Island onto Hamahiga you will turn right (Hama side of the island). A historical marker will be located about 250meters once you turn off from the bridge. You have to park near the road, and follow the path along a fence-line.

*Notes 

Sources. Source of information provided by the Uruma City Board of Education (explanation sign in Japanese). The term 'agari' meaning 'east' is Hogen and its meaning is found in the Okinawa-English Wordbook, University Hawaii Press dtd 2006. It is also referred by the Kanji 東 also meaning 'east'.

Other places of interest nearby. Off The Beaten Path - Hamahiga, Amamichu's Grave, Shirumichu, Hamahiga Beach, The Gateway.