"The Tsushima Maru Museum"

Inside the Tsushima Maru Museum

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Tsushima Maru Museum

      GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 13.206	E 127 40.366

The Tsushima Maru Museum - Naha City

On August 22, 1944 at 10:12pm, a tragic incident happen off the coast of Akuseki-jima, Kagoshima. An 'unmarked' passenger-cargo ship named Tsushima Maru carrying 1661 people from Okinawa to Japan was torpedoed by an American submarine USS Bowfin. It wouldn't be twenty years after the war that the crew of the USS Bowfin would learn that of the 1418 who perished on that dreadful night, 767 were children. They didn't know it was a ship of fleeing civilians.

It was around this time that war was rapidly approaching on Okinawa soil and residents were advised to leave Okinawa to escape the inevitable confrontation. On August 21, 1944, students, teachers, and other civilians boarded Tsushima Maru from Naha Port hoping to escape the bloodshed. The Tsushima Maru was among 4 other ships in a convoy, two which were classified as gun ships and the two possibly as cargo ships. Of the 826 children who were on that ship, only 59 had survived. Part of the reason why no one knew it was a civilian passenger ship afterwards, was perhaps that the survivors were warned not to speak of the incident by their officials. But after 60 years later, their stories are now being told.

The Tsushima Maru Museum is not about taking sides. Like all war memorials, whether it be on Pearl Harbor or on Okinawa, they all have messages of promoting peace, and for some, the message is to help find inner peace. Tsushima Maru Museum is to give tribute to the innocent lives and dreams that were lost on that dreadful day. And to remind us that war does not always discriminate against its victims; The good, the bad, and the innocent...all get grouped together. The museum is a monument itself spreading the message of world peace. 

Further information. For more information in English about the Tsushima Maru Incident, you can visit the museum website at http://www.tsushimamaru.or.jp/e_index.html. There, you will find personal interviews translated in English of some of the survivors. You can also visit the USS Bowfin Museum at: http://www.bowfin.org/submarine/36/132-tsushima-maru which has other information of the circumstances surrounding the incident.

English Translation at the Museum. There is no side-by-side English translation next to each station at the museum. However, they do offer a English handout that talks about the background and some of the stations you will see. So please ask for one.

Hours/Entrance Fee. For update information on their Hours and Entrance Fees please go to their website at: http://www.tsushimamaru.or.jp/eng/guide/guide1.html

Handicap Accessibility. The main entrance is on the 2nd floor, however, those who are physically disabled can enter on the first floor exit door.

Parking. There is a pay meter for parking next to the museum.

Phone Number: 098 941 3515
Website: http://www.tsushimamaru.or.jp/

Directions. If you are going into Naha using Highway 58 from the north. You will see signs posted that say 'Tsushimamaru Museum'. However, If you are familiar with Kumoji Crossing in Naha (the center point of the Naha Tug-of-War). I recommend you make the right-turn at the Kumoji Crossing intersection (if you are traveling south on the 58). As soon as you pass the Fukushuen Chinese Garden (on the left) make a left turn at the next traffic light. As soon as you make that left you will make the first right (about 100m). Look for signs that point to the museum. The museum will be on your left and is right next to the Naminoue Shrine. The route is highlight in blue above.

Source of information. The Tsushima Maru Museum Website, The USS Bowfin Museum Website, Museum Handout translated in English. 

"Eerie Path to an Ogimi War Monument (Shioya District)"

Pathway leading to the Ogimi War Monument

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Eeire Path to an Ogimi War Monument (Shioya)

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 40.358	E 128 06.423

Eerie Path to an Ogimi War Monument (Shioya District) 

Glancing at the picture above, you are probably wondering what you looking at. If you look directly at the center of the picture you will see a set of steps. At this spot, where I'm standing when I took this picture, is about the halfway point before you get to the Ogimi War Memorial. The actually starting point begins at another set of steps (much more steeper) before you get to this point.

I posted this picture intentionally to give you an idea of the eeriness I felt walking up this path.  Everything about this place brought chills up my back, partly because I had no idea what I was expecting and partly because the path seemed old and beaten down by years of harsh weather and natural aging. I only found out that this was a War Monument afterwards. If you look at the photo album, I laid out pictures in a orderly sequence to show you what you will see at each step along the way.

Once you get to the top, you will see an 'Utaki' (sacred place of prayer) and several erected stones next to it. The largest stone says War Monument with the names inscribed below (See Photo Album). I call this the Ogimi War Monument due to its location, however, nothing on the stones seems to mention where the deceased actually came from. Intuition tells me that there is more to this monument than meets the eye and gives me cause to do further research about this specific location and why this place was chosen for the monument's final resting place. Next to the monument is another path that leads further up the hill (it's the last photo in the photo album). Due to time constraints, I decided against going up. Maybe the answer I am looking for lies somewhere up there. Will have to see. 

Walking Up There. There are really two ways you can get to the monument. The first way is via the set of steps that marks the beginning of the path as shown in the photo album. Next to the steps, however, is a paved walkway that goes around and up the hill. This will eventually take you to the top as well.

Finding the Steps. If you look at the map you can probably navigate your way to it. You can also see the the steps if you are on top of the Shioya Hilltop mentioned in a previous blog post. If you look to the north from this hill top, you will see these set of steps disappearing into the treeline.

CAUTION. The path is old. There stairway is somewhat steep, but manageable if you are in good health. There was a lot of overgrowth. Depending on the time of year, be prepared for mosquitoes, large spider webs, tons of grasshoppers, and possibly snakes. To protect your legs from some of these critters, I don't recommend wearing sandals or even shorts. Because of the overgrowth on the path, bring a guide stick or umbrella to brush away the vegetation. This is to help you see where you are walking and to avoid any possible snakes. For safety reasons, I highly recommend you don't bring any young children up there.

What to Bring. Good Shoes, pants (recommended), walking stick, camera, and water.

Other places of interest nearby: Scenic View from a Shioya Hilltop, The Ogimi Waterfall.

"Yomitan War Memorial - Tokeshi District"

Yomitan War Memorial - Tokeshi District

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War Memorial Shrine in Yomitan

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 25.256	E 127 43.635

Yomitan War Memorial - Tokeshi District

This War Memorial in Yomitan may go unnoticed if you never veer off the main highway (Route 6). We found this shrine by literally getting lost in Yomitan. This particular war memorial resides at the Tokeshi District of Yomitan Village. It sits underneath a large tree (See picture album above). Next to the shrine are the list of names from Yomitan Village who lost their lives during the "Greater East Asia War". This term was used by the Japanese to describe World War II.

There are two war memorials in Yomitan. This one at the Tokeshi District is older. It was built in 1913. At  this moment, I do not have the location of the other war memorial.

Parking: You will have to find a place off the road. Park at your own risk.
How to get there: Please look at the map to do a route reconnaissance. Although you can use Hwy 6 to get close to it, you do have to navigate your way through some unmarked roads. It's not too difficult. I provided some landmarks near the shrine.

Other places of interest nearby: Statue of Shinran Shonin.

"The Toguchi Village War Memorial"

The Toguchi War Memorial - Toguchi Village (Near Kitanakagusuku)

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The Toguchi Shrine

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.268	E 127 48.524

The Toguchi Village War Memorial

This is a small war memorial in the village of Toguchi near Kitanakagusuku and Awase.
It is collocated near the main entrance of "Midori Park" or "Green Park". The Kanji on the big head stone means, "War Memorial".

At the foot of the shrine, you see two marble rectangular objects on opposite ends. Each have the names of the war deceased inscribed in them. It is believed that the names are of people that once lived in the Village of Toguchi. (The War Memorial does not explicitly specify that the people were actually from the Village of Toguchi).

Other places of interest: The Toguchi War Memorial is right next to "Midori Park" or "Green Park". After visiting the shrine, you may be interested walking around "Green Park". You may get a small workout since it is built on an incline. If you look on the map you will also see "The Park of Mysteries" not to far away. See the map.

Parking. Look at the Green thumbtack in the map. Parking is tight. I would stick to the main route (highlighted in blue on the map) at first. The village across from the shrine has some very narrow roads if you try to go through by car.

What to bring. Umbrella for shading, rain, and removing spider webs. Definitely bring water and a camera. Bring a lunch box if you think you will be there for a while. It's good for a quiet picnic.

"The Park of Mysteries - Toguchi Village"

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The Park with Many Mysteries

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 18.222	E 127 48.495

The Park of Mysteries - Toguchi Village

I call this 'The Park of Mysteries'. It is tucked away in Toguchi Village, just south of Awase. It is pretty hidden and not something you will see advertised on the main highways. It is in the northwest corner of the 81/329 Intersection. I call it 'The Park of Mysteries' cause there were a few structures of curiosity that had no explicit explanation or inscription next to them (PLEASE CLICK ON THE PICTURE ALBUM). The park is well kept which means someone must take care of it. I suspect that local volunteers in the village help with the maintenance.

Mystery #1. There is this well structure with no inscription on it explaining its purpose. The well is only about a foot deep filled just with rocks and overgrown vegetation. I am not sure if this was a source of water at one time. (It is important to note that this structure may have no importance whatsoever. Someone could have just designed and made it that way). It looks relatively modern.

Mystery #2. There is a pond with a what used to be a large tree hanging over it. The pond is now just stagnant water. But it flows to a nearby ditch. I am not sure if this was a spring at one time. The tree has been cut up for some time, and the only part that remains is a big chuck of its trunk. It looked like the tree was really big at one time and had some importance at one time.

Mystery #3. There is a stone that erected next to a tree. It doesn't look like an ordinary stone. It almost looks like it was put there on purpose. No inscription was next to it. Part of the stone was broken. Again, it could be a coincidence that that stone happen to be there and shaped the way it was, but I don't think so.

Mystery #4. Behind the park is a trail that skirts around to an 'Utaki' (Hogan, the Okinawan native language, for sacred place). There is an inscription with a heading that says 'Kumishi' in Katakana (Katakana is Japanese alphabet for non-Japanese words). Asking around, it is not certain what this means. It could be a Hogan word. Hogan dialects vary on the island as well. So an Okinawan from one part of the island may not know a Hogan word from another part of the island. Below the heading it says, "Birthplace at Atta Village". I believe that the utaki was created at Atta Village which is in Onna Village (opposite side of the island) and that it was later moved to Toguchi Village.

My goal is to go back and find an elder from Toguchi Village that may know about these curious structures.
I will come back and update this post on my findings.

Other places of interest: You will see a set of steps from bottom of this park. If you take it up and veer right, you will run into 'Midori Park' or 'Green Park' about 100 meters away. You will also see another War Memorial (Toguchi War Memorial) at the entrance of Green Park. I will blog about this real soon.

Caution: Just be aware of low lying branches. You may see some of those big Banana Spider webs, particularly if you going on the trail to the mysterious utaki in the back. I wouldn't wear sandals. Wear some good shoes, especially if you decide to go to the 'Green Park' afterwards. 'Green Park' has some interesting side trails, but they are rugged. If you do go to 'Green Park', definitely watch out for the Banana Spiders. 'Green Park' is also built on a slight incline, so it is a little workout going through it.

Parking. Look at the Green thumbtack in the map. Parking is tight. Keep in mind that the village next to the Mysterious Park has some very narrow roads if you try to go through by car (You shouldn't have to though). Toguchi Village is an Old Okinawan style of neighborhood. To access the Mysterious Park, you could do what I did and park somewhere near Highway 329 or 81 and walk to it.

What to bring. Umbrella for shading, rain, and removing spider webs. Definitely bring water and a camera. Bring a lunch box if you think you will be there for a while. It's good for a quiet picnic.

The Mystery Park of Toguchi is a small park, but it is quiet and serene. It's good to relax and just take a small part of Okinawan culture.