"The Purple Iris Fields of Kijoka"

Standing Watch! A purple iris stands tall

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The Purple Iris Fields of Kijoka

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 42.402	E 128 08.944

The Purple Iris Fields of Kijoka

Aside from the Kijoka Falls, the town of Kijoka also hosts a very beautiful green field full of purple irises. The general blooming time for these flowers here in Okinawa is between the late month of March through early to mid-April. Just like the Cherry Blossoms, timing is critical if you want to see these flowers in their best performance. The roughly 1 square km field of lush green iris stems and leaves highlight these purple wonders under the morning sun.

The exact scientific classification of these simple flowers, however, has proven to be somewhat more complex. Conflicting scientific terms have surfaced. They are part of the Iridaceae Family, but the exact specie type is left to question. Research sources, such as The Society for Japanese Irises, The Iris Encyclopedia, and The American Iris Society were reviewed, but an exact classification could not yet be determined with 100% accuracy (This post will be updated upon new findings).

One thing is for certain however, is that the Okinawans refer to this particular iris as 'Okurareruka' (written in Katakana as オクラレルカ). There is a species called 'Iris ochroleuca' with the second half of the name mimicking the pronunciation 'Okurareruka' in Japanese. However, conflicting images have surfaced depicting the flower as all white instead of purple. It is quite possible that these purple irises of Kijoka were initially given the classification of 'Iris ochroleuca' and later found to be of a different kind, while the name, 'Okurareruka', had taken root among the Okinawans.

Kijoka is found in Ogimi Village and they have provided a website link displaying the blooming phases of the Kijoka Iris Fields. Please visit link http://www.vill.ogimi.okinawa.jp (Japanese).

Blooming Season. Late March to early to mid-April. Best time to view is 7-10 days after first bloom. 

Related Articles. For other related images of the Kijoka Purple Iris Field, see Mike's Ryukyu Gallery at: http://blog.mikesryukyugallery.com/2012/03/2012-okinawa-iris-flowers-are-starting.html.

Directions. The directions is the same as if you were going to the Kijoka Falls. If you are going north on Highway 58, look for the 'Bashofu Weaving Workshop' sign to know where to turn off (start of the blue route in the map above). After the turn make the first right. Follow this road and continue straight. Instead of turning right at the LandMark Building that takes you to the Kijoka Falls, continue straight. Once you pass this LandMark, you will want to look to your left and look for the lush green fields. It's not difficult to find. Navigate your way through and park in some of the open areas provided. Avoid parking in areas that might disrupt traffic.

Other places of interest nearby. The Kijoka Falls.

The Akainko Shrine

The Akainko Shrine

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Akainko Shrine

      GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 23.142	E 127 44.432

The Legend of Akainko, the Father of the Sanshin

The story behind the Akainko Shrine is both a sad and happy one. The story dates back to the 15th and 16th century in an area now known as Sobe of Yomitan Village. It deals with hardship of a village life, a tale of love and death, and the triumph of one man’s legacy that would ultimately change Okinawa forever. The following tale is derived from the Yomitan Village Folklore and Legends publication.

The villagers were clinging to hope, but the drought showed no signs of ending any time soon. Fresh water had become scarce, and the townspeople where in much need of a miracle. It so happened that in the village there was a beautiful young woman by the name of Chira who had a pet dog. The two were always together and the dog was known for his brilliant red hair. One day, the dog disappeared, and when he returned, Chira had noticed something odd; the dog was soaked with water! “How could this be?”, she wondered, for there hasn’t been any rain for such a long time. The dog tugged on her clothes pleading with her. He obviously wanted to show her something; and so she followed him. He led her to a nearby cave and inside, she discovered the reason why the dog was wet. There was a spring inside! Chira ran back and told the villagers, and upon hearing the great news they extolled both Chira and her pet dog.

However, happiness was short-lived for the young woman. Chira had found herself in a vicious love triangle, and the situation was about to escalate; for she had made it known who she wanted, and this did not sit well with the defeated lover. He would eventually murder the man Chira loved, but it would not stop there. This was just the beginning of her troubles.(ii)

Devastated and heartbroken, Chira was now facing another reality: she was pregnant with her now deceased lover’s child. What was she going to do? She wasn’t married; and how was she going to explain this to her parents? Time went on, and it became obvious that she was bearing a child in her womb. Villagers began to question the ordeal and rumors circulated. It turned out, the man who killed Chira’s true love was the one spreading these rumors. To lay one more knife in Chira’s heart, he planted the idea that Chira had done the unthinkable. The father of her baby wasn’t a man. It was her dog.

If her dignity wasn’t destroyed then, it was now hanging by a thread. Humiliated and emotionally isolated, Chira had no choice but to leave the village. She fled to Ikei Island to live out the rest of her days.(i) There, she gave birth to a son and found some hope of a peaceful life, but that too was short lived. A few years later, her parents had found out where she was staying and decided to go see her. But after learning the news of their arrival, she became stricken with guilt for she had caused them so much pain. Ashamed and unable to face them again, Chira had taken her own life.

She left behind her parents, broken-hearted, and a son with an uncertain future.

Years later…

He was sitting around when it began to rain. Drops, one-by-one, fell to the earth making a nice thump-like sound. So pleased with the rhythm, the young man wanted to mimic what he had heard. He then took a branch from a Kuba Tree and took three strands from a horse’s tail and put them together to make a banjo-like instrument.(iii) The young man liked what he had heard and took his new invention and played it wherever he went.

One day, a servant of the king had heard the young man’s music. He was so pleased that he asked him if he would go to Shuri to play for his majesty. The young man agreed and together they set off to see the king. And so the young man played and played to his heart’s content. The king wasn’t just amazed. He was enthralled by its beauty and power; so much that he immediately directed the young man to travel throughout the island to spread his music. And so off he went spreading his love in musical form.

His adventures would eventually take him to China and on his journey back, he brought with him various types of grains and apparel he had found in his travels. The villagers of Yomitan took the grains, cultivated them, and spread them throughout village yielding many, many crops. It was from this day forward that Yomitan would become known as the 'King of Vegetables' throughout the kingdom.

Epilogue. Every year Yomitan Village celebrates the Akainko Festival typically held around 20 September of the Lunar Calendar to honor the young man’s legacy and the new staples he introduced centuries before.

Sanshin and Sanshi-no-hi (三線の日).The banjo-like instrument he created became known as the Sanshin, named for the three strings used to make the beautiful sound; and henceforth the young man became known as the ‘Father of the Sanshin’. Sanshin, in Japanese literally means ‘three strings’. Every year on March 4th, a special musical ceremony (mainly comprised of sanshin players) is performed in front of the Akainko Shrine to honor his musical contribution to Okinawa and to the world. This is no ordinary date. March 4th has become known as the ‘Day of the Sanshin’ or in Japanese, Sanshi-no-hi (三線の日). The reason March 4th was chosen is because numerically the date can be written as 3/4. The special date is based on a Japanese pun, where 'san', means 3, and 'shi', means 4 – the two syllables found in the word sanshin. It is not uncommon to see students of the sanshin praying at the shrine. It is believed it will help them master the art.

The Shrine and the Meaning of his Name. The location of the shrine is believed to be where the young man ascended into heaven.(2) His true name given at the time of his birth remains to be a mystery however. It appears that any knowledge of that went to his mother’s grave all those years ago on Ikei Island. So he decided to take on another name. In the Okinawan language he called himself Akanukuu (アカヌクー). In Japanese this translate to Akainko (赤犬子).(iv) If one where to analyze its kanji form, the meaning becomes clear. Put together it means 'Child of the Red Dog'.

Author’s Notes.
i. The above account was derived from Yomitan’s Folklore and Legends Publication, dated 2005. An older source mentions that Chira fled to Katsuren and lived inside a cave near the ocean. It made no mention of Ikei Island. The source was from a 1990 version of Yomitan’s History Chronicles #11, beginning on pg 220.
ii. Other sources describe a more chilling version of the love triangle that occurred between Chira and the two men involved. This is pending further research and investigation as this version was not mentioned in either of the above sources.
iii. The Kuba Tree is the Okinawan name for the Chinese Fan Palm, (Livistona chinensis). For images, visit Floridata.com.
iv. The first kanji (赤) means red (Aka); the second kanji (犬) means dog (Inu); and last kanji (子) means child (Ko). When the kanji’s are put together the ‘u’ is subtracted from inu.

Reference.
1. The Akainko Story, The Yomitan Folklore and Legends Publication, dated 2005, pg 39
2. Akainko's ascension, Okinawa Prefectural Board of Education. Website.

Directions/Parking. The Akainko Shrine is about 250 meters in front of the US Army Base Torii Station main gate. It is the turn-off immediate west of the Family Mart. Take Highway 58 into Yomitan and then take Highway 6 going west towards Torii Station. Torii Station will be on your left, the Family Mart to your right. Parking is very confined. Please do not block any gates belonging to any residential areas.

Zatsungawa River (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)

The Zatsungawa River (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)

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Zatsungawa

      GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 49.434	E 128 14.784

      *GPS to starting point




The Zatsungawa River, ザツンガワ / 座津武川

The Zatsungawa River of Uka, Kunigami Village is one of many beautiful rivers in the northern part of Okinawa. For the outdoor enthusiast, this offers an escape into the wild and a good taste of nature. See Trekking Data below. There are some moderate to high risk areas so please read the recommended guidelines below.

Trekking Data & Information
River Name. Zatsungawa (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)
River Location. Uka, Kunigami Village (宇嘉, 国頭村)
Trek Starting Point. GPS N26 49.434 E128 14.784
Recommended Emergency Rally Point (For Emergency Vehicles). GPS N26 49.468 E128 14.632
1st Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.386 E128 14.906 (image, video)
2nd Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.384 E128 14.955 (image, video)
3rd Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.249 E128 15.037 (image, video)
Turn-Around Point. GPS N26 49.246 E128 15.130 (image, video)
Trek Time from Starting Point to Turn-Around Point. Approx 3 hrs
Total Time. 7 hrs
Video Overview.  Map It! Okinawa Video Short, Zatsungawa River.

Tip. Start your trek near the water station. Look for a metallic ladder taking you down to the river. Climb down and cross to the other side. You will see a trail and it will take you to a launch point on your trek.

Note. At the time of this river trek, the turn-around-point could not be surpassed due to the semi steep outer-terrain and the depth of water. Under warmer conditions this may be feasible. It is not recommended to submerge into water above the waist during the colder months. Please read below. The post will be updated after future attempts have been completed.

Recommended Guidelines (MUST READ!)

1. VERY IMPORTANT! This particular river trek is recommended only for those who have fairly good physical agility, coordination skills, and upper body strength. Negotiating steep inclines may be required. Recommended only for young adults and above. Though most of the trek is manageable, it does have some moderate to high risk areas.

2. VERY IMPORTANT! Plan on getting wet up to your knees. It is sometimes safer to walk in the river, rather than hopping and balancing yourself on the rocks just to keep dry. On a normal good weather day, the river current at most areas is not enough to push you off balance. Though this rule may seem trivial, it is a very important thing to remember. The biggest risk to this trek is falling and slipping on the rocks.

3. VERY IMPORTANT! In the colder months you do not want to get wet above your waist. You will run the risk of hypothermia if you continue further. Your upper body will not provide you enough heat for you to keep warm. Ideally, try to keep the water below the knees.

4. VERY IMPORTANT! It is recommended that you do not trek during the rain or after a recent rain shower. The ideal time is on an average good weather day (no rain or drizzle). During good weather the rocks above the river will be dry. This is important for grip. There are some high risk areas that will require good surface grip (feet, hands, and body) to get from point A to point B. This rule is unique to this river. Surface grip will be required to negotiate difficult terrain.

5. DO NOT WEAR TENNIS SHOES!!! Tennis shoes offer no traction and will slip on these rocks. Wear something that has hard soles and has great traction on these kinds of surfaces. If you do not have hard soles you will 'feel' every step you take. And since you will be getting wet, thick heavy boots will only get heavier when soaked. You should wear something that is lighter, has good traction, but still gives you flexibility of movement.

6. GUIDE STICK. Having a guide stick is recommended. Sometimes it will be safer to skirt the terrain just to avoid danger areas. If at some point it seems impossible to continue, look for red or yellow tape markers around the trees. Trekkers have left guide marks to assist with negotiating terrain (though on this particular river, it has not always been helpful). You will need a guide stick to probe these areas for snakes and to knock down spider webs. When you are negotiating boulders however, you will have to set your guide stick aside to free your hands for climbing. This is very important. When it comes to negotiating boulders and rocky terrain, your hands will be your best assets. This is for safety.

7. Never go alone. Have a buddy. For this particular river trek, the 'ideal' number is to have at least three (3) hiking buddies, but optimally try to have more than 3 due to the level of difficulty. If one gets hurt, then you have the option of leaving at least one with the injured while the other(s) go retrieve help. Cell phone reception is very difficult, if not non-existent in these areas. If you are a US Service Member, your nearest US Military Facility will be the Okuma Recreational Facility. It is recommended that everyone should have the number to this location should an emergency arise.

8. Tell someone (or few others), where you will be river trekking to and leave them at a minimum: the GPS coordinate of the starting point, the name of the river, and this website URL (see Trek Data Information above).

9. Wear a light long-sleeve top (depending on the weather) for protection against the elements and bugs. Whether you trek on the river or skirt the landscape, you will hit spider web after spider web (summer or winter).

10. Wear a hat or beanie to keep warm and to protect yourself against the elements and bugs. You may run into many spider webs along the way (Do a 'spider check' with your buddy every now and then). A beanie does offer some bit of head protection in the event of a fall.

11. VERY IMPORTANT! Bring some light hiking gloves for grip and protection. You may be required to grab roots, tree limbs, trees, rocks, dirt, etc. in order to negotiate terrain.

12. DO NOT WEAR SHORTS! Find something that you don't mind getting wet in and that offers protection against the elements. There 'will' be a few times you will be on your knees or on your rear end as you negotiate some of the terrain. Also you need to protect your legs from critters and abrasions. You may want to bring some shorts if you want to take a dip in the water. There are some areas that are over 7 feet deep. Swimming not recommend in the colder months.

13. VERY IMPORTANT! Apply the '3-Points of Contact Rule' when going over difficult terrain.

14. VERY IMPORTANT! Maintain a low center of gravity when going over difficult terrain.

15. If something looks unsafe, then avoid. Find another way to negotiate the terrain or SIMPLY, DON'T DO IT. Don't try to be brave. You do not have to travel far to enjoy the natural scenery.

16. Give yourself plenty of time AND TAKE YOUR TIME. NO NEED TO RUSH. But remember you have to add time to get back (before dark!). Recommend you leave early morning time frame. The rule of thumb is travel far enough so that have the same amount of time to get back. However, add an extra hour as a buffer on your return trip. (For example, if you travel 3 hours, ensure you have 4 hours of sunlight left to get back). Note. From experience, it is more dangerous on your return trip. There are two reasons; on your return trip your are more fatigued and therefore less alert; and second, gravity and descending elevation. It is usually a lot easier to climb up then it is to climb down.

17. Bring a light backpack for food, water, toilet paper, flash light, survival kit, first aid kit, light rain coat, warming layers, etc. and water proof them as needed.

18. USE THE BATHROOM BEFORE YOU GO! Making natural deposits of certain kind in the wild may not be fun for some.

19. You will get dirty. Bring a towel, extra socks, extra pair of shoes, shirt, pants, and warming layers (Can leave in the car).

20. Tuck in your shoe laces to prevent tripping.

21. Protect & secure items such as your wallet and cell phone from moisture and from getting soaked.

22. Don't try to be brave. Respect your limits and respect nature.

23. You do not have to go all the way to any of the stopping points or to the Turn-Around Point. You don't have to go far to enjoy some of the beauty along the river. Never feel pressured to continue on if you are fatigued or if it becomes too hazardous.

Directions/Parking. Take Highway 58 into Kunigami Village (to the town of Uka, 宇嘉). You will have to navigate by Landmarks annotated in the map. The turn-off point is just a few hundred meters south of the Uka Tunnel (click here for Japanese writing above the tunnel). Additionally, the Uka Tunnel is a newer tunnel. The older tunnel is fenced off to the side. It is the old Zatsun Tunnel. If you wish to park near the water station, please do not block the entrance gate as maintenance crews utilize this station.

Other Rivers in Okinawa. Takazato River, Fukugawa II, Taa Water. 

The Yabu Temple, Ryounin

The Yabu Temple, Nago City

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The Yabu Temple

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 36.342	E 127 57.127

The Yabu Temple, Ryounin - Nago City

The Yabu Temple (屋部寺) is a small Buddhist temple believed to originated some time in the 17th century. The temple resides in the town of Yabu of Nago City bordering the coastline along Highway 449 on the Motubu Peninsula. Formally, the temple is named Ryōun'in (凌雲院). The original temple was destroyed during the Okinawan War.(1)(2)(i) It was later rebuilt in 1956.(1)(2)(ii)

Though the temple is quite small, it was officially recognized by the Old Ryukyu government along with three of its local legends.(2)(3) The temple, and its legends, were recorded in an official document known as the Kyuu-you (or Kyuyo).(3)(iii) It is an historical account of the Ryukyu islands that was completed in 1745. James Robinson author of the book, Okinawa: A People and their Gods, published in 1969, also writes of one legend that have similarities to those in the official record. It's not certain if his account was derived from local villagers or from official documents belonging to the Ryukyu government. The following is a breakdown of those legends.

Legends derived from the Kyuyo

Legend One.(3) In the year 1692, drought had plagued the village of Yabu. Around the same time, sporadic fires too had wreaked havoc on the village. In an act of desperation, a Buddhist monk by the name of Ryun Washo was asked to bring prosperity to Yabu. The monk granted their request and prayed for seven days on a large stone at the base of the hill. On the seventh day rain had finally come saving the village from despair. The once problematic fires too ceased their torment on the townspeople. In his honor and to show their gratitude the villagers erected the small temple. The rock that Ryun Washo had meditated on still sits behind the temple untouched and unmarked. It sits inconspicuously in its natural environment. A documented photograph can be found on page 51 of the Yabu Historical Chronicles.(2) An photograph taken in December 2014 is shown here.

Legend Two.(3) Behind temple lived a very large snake up in the hills. It was said that this snake could blow fire from its mouth. The people frantically requested help from a Chuzan kingdom lord. The lord agreed and dispatched a man by the name of Kinjo-san from the Tenkai Temple [Note. It wasn't clear by the translation if Kinjo-san was a monk and it is not certain by the author where the Tenkai Temple is located]. Kinjo-san prayed fervently and the snake was defeated. Later, Kinjo-san had placed a large statue of Buddha inside the temple to mark the occasion. [Note. The statue is believed by the author to be the one in the middle seen in this picture].

Legend Three.(3) One day a Buddhist monk from Shuri had visited the temple. He had said that the large hill behind the temple showed great promise [perhaps indicating its spiritual value, author assertion]. However, he said that there was a split within the hills that resembled a snake's mouth. He declared that this was a bad omen under the concept of Feng Shui (Fu Sui in Japanese).(iv)(v) However, to offset this premonition the monk then placed seven statues of Buddha inside the temple to thwart off any misfortune.[Note: those statues can be seen here inside the temple].

After his work was completed, the monk decided to return to Shuri. A man from Yabu was sent with him to assist with his belongings. When they arrived back to Shuri, the monk had made a prophetic comment to the Yabu villager. He said, “tomorrow will be my death, so today please eat from the ufurunme [a type of hospitality dish?] on my behalf before you return to Yabu".(vi) As foretold, the monk passed away the very next day.

Legend from James Robinson's Research.(1) James Robinson, in his 1969 book, writes “there was a spirit named 'Akamata' which had the power to transform himself into a handsome young man”. However, Robinson does not add much in his book about the spirit's sinister deeds other than trying to lure a farmer's daughter. Interesting however, he does explain that an Enkakuji Temple monk by the name of Ryun Washo (same person from Legend One above) came from Shuri and defeated the spirit 'Akamata' by use of incantations. The Yabu Temple was then built in honor of Buddha. [Note. It is important to note that the word 'akamata' is a type of snake found in the Okinawan islands. A picture can be seen here, photographed by Shawn Miller. It's not uncommon to find snakes in Okinawan legends. See Related Links below for other snake legends of Okinawa.]

Local Ceremonies. On October 15th of the old calendar (kyureki/lunar calendar) some of Yabu's elderly and prominent townspeople preside over prayer ceremonies within the district. Ceremonies are held at 10 different places in sequential order. It is to give thanks and to pray for the the town's prosperity. The Yabu Temple is third in the order of ceremonies.(2) The ceremonies are typically lead by a kaminchu, a term meaning spiritual leader in the Okinawa language.

The Yabu Temple during New Years (Jan 1 - 3)

Local Villagers, as well as some from the nearby area, come to the Yabu Temple to celebrate New Years Day. A small ceremony starts around 2345 (1145pm) on December 31st. For those who wish to attend the Yabu Temple during New Years, below is the general sequence of events to help you through the process.

General Sequence of Events. Please note, the Yabu Temple is not a Shinto Shrine. However, there are similarities to attending both temples and shrines during New Years. The Yabu Temple is small so the process is typically is more simplified. 

1. Entering the Premise. There is a small gate entrance. This is not a torii gate. However, the gate does alert visitors they are entering a sacred area.

2. Purification Fountain. There are no purification fountains at the Yabu Temple. Typically, these kinds of fountains are found at major Shinto Shrines.

3. Omikuji (optional). People who attend the temple have the option of receiving their fortune for the New Year. This fortune is called an omikuji and can be purchased for about 100 Yen. [Note. Because of the low expected volume of foreign visitors to the temple, the omikuji here at the Yabu Temple is typically written in Japanese]. You can either take the fortune with you or tie it to a tree branch or place provided. Depending on whether your fortune is great or not, it is believed that by leaving it at the shrine or temple grounds, your fortune will either multiply in prosperity or bad luck will be diverted.(5)

4. Approaching the Temple. Typically there will be a line to approach the temple. As you approach the temple you will notice a saisen, a box where you deposit monetary offerings, anywhere from 5¥ to 100¥.

5. Prayer. Normally, you pray after you make your monetary offering. Most people bow and clap twice and say a small prayer in silence. Some may just fold there hands.

6. Ringing of the Temple Bell (optional). After you have said your prayers, individuals, couples, or family members are welcome to ring the temple bell. For proper etiquette, this is just done once as an entity.

Reference.
1. Book, Okinawa: A People and their Gods, 1969, James Robinson, Tuttle Publishing Company, pg 59, Link
2. Book, Yabu Historical Chronicles, 2002 October 27 (Japanese), published by the Town of Yabu, pg 52
3. Information Handout, Ryounin - The Yabu Temple, Published by the Town of Yabu, Image Link
4. Website, Compilation of Official Histories and Establishment of the Legal System, Okinawa Prefectural Board of Education, Link
5. Website, Shinto Shrines, Japan Guide, Link

Author's Notes.

i. The references stated that the original temple was destroyed during the Okinawan War but it did not specify details as to who or what caused its destruction.

ii. In James Robison's research he states that the temple was rebuilt in 1957. However, the Yabu Historical Chronicles, a more recent publication, states it was rebuilt in 1956.

iii. The Kyuyo is a compilation of historical events that took place in the Old Kingdom. It was completed in 1745. It also contains legends found throughout the Old Kingdom.(4)

iv. In essence, Feng Shui deals with the balance of nature. More can be read about it here at About.com

v. It's not certain where this split or "snakes mouth" is in relation to the temple. There is a split (now a road) that goes between two hills next to the Yabu Temple. See picture here. 
vi. The term ufurunme could not be found in any official resource. But interviews with Okinawan people have lead us to believe it is an Okinawan word meaning some kind of hospitality food. The latter suffix -me can mean food in the Okinawan language. Additionally, during some Okinawa funerals, family members of the deceased eat from a specially prepared meal called usande (ウサンデー) . It is not certain if the two terms have identical meaning in this context. It was theorized during this research that ufurunme could possibly be dialect from an aristocratic society, such as that found at Shuri during the Old Kingdom. As stated, there are no official references as of yet to support any of this.

Parking/Amenities. Parking. You will have to park somewhere off to the side of the road near the temple grounds. There is a parking field across the from the temple but it is own by the nursery school and gated. It may be open for the New Years. Amenities. There is a walk ramp leading up to the temple for baby strollers and those using a wheel chair.

Directions. Take Highway 58 into Nago City. Then take Highway 449 (coastline) going towards Motubu. Please study the map carefully. You will pass the Yabu Post Office (on the right) before you reach the turn-off (on the right), about 400 meters later. The turn-off is not easily recognizable. Warning. You are more likely to pass the turn-off the first time around. Be careful of making sudden stops as you see the turn-off. It will sneak up on you. See picture of turn-off here. In the interest of safety, if you pass it just turn around later. Avoid making sudden stops. There typically is a high volume of traffic on the main route. From the turn-off, follow the Blue Vehicle route designated in the map above. LandMarks (yellow diamond icons) have been placed to help you reach the temple.

Related Articles (Snake Legends of Okinawa). The Matsuda Cave & Mega Gama Ruins, Legend of Yara Muruchi.

Hatsumode, New Years at the Naminoue Shrine

Hatsumode, New Years at Naminoue Shrine

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Hatsumode, Naminoue Shrine

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 13.142	E 127 40.134

        *GPS to Pink Thumbtack Icon




Hatsumode, Naminoue Shrine

It is a Japanese tradition to start off the New Year with a visit to a Shinto Shrine. In Japanese this is called hatsumode (hatsumōde, はつもうで, 初詣) which literally means “first visit to a shrine”. Typically, families try to go on the very first day of the New Year. Others, because of their work schedule for example, may attend on the second or third day. Usually, people visit Shinto Shrines for hatsumode, but they can also visit Buddhist temples with the same aspirations. Some Japanese or Okinawan people choose to go to a certain shrine (or shrines) based on personal or local beliefs. This could depend on the person's zodiac sign and/or the upcoming zodiac year.

The Naminoue Shrine is without question the most popular Shinto Shrine in the Ryukyu Islands. Many people visit here on New Year's Day. Below is the general sequence of events on visiting the shrine on this occasion. With a few minor exceptions, it is no different than visiting any other Shinto Shrine on any given day. If you feel uncomfortable going alone, ask a Japanese friend to accompany you. Staff members at Naminoue are accustom to foreigners attending this shrine. You need not fear, just go with a little humility and patience.

Date: January 1st starting at midnight usually to January 3rd or longer.

General Sequence of Events.
1. Entering the Premises. Enter the Naminoue Shrine through the torii gate. The torii gate lets travelers know they are about to enter a sacred area. It is considered proper etiquette to stop and bow just before you enter.

 2. The Purification Fountain/Cleansing of the Body. The following is based on questions and interviews with various Japanese and Okinawan people. No official guide can be referenced on this process and not everyone may follow these steps exactly. Some may even skip it all together. But the below guidelines are the most complete. It is recommended that you observe others during this process first. The fountain at Naminoue will be on your left if you are facing the Main Prayer Hall (haiden, 拝殿).

Step 1. Approach the trough and with your right hand, pick up the ladle and scoop the "pure water" from the basin or fountain.

Step 2. Pour the water to clean your left hand. NOTE: When you are washing your hand do not let the water fall back into the pure water basin after cleansing. Let the water rinse off on the outside of the basin onto the ground. This prevents the now "soiled water" from falling back into the pure water basin. 

Step 3. Next, take the ladle with the left hand and pour the water over your right hand using guidelines in Step 2.

Step 4. (Optional) Next, you are to clean the body by taking the ladle with the right hand and making a cup with your left hand. Pour water into your left hand and then pour it into your mouth. DO NOT SWALLOW IT or GARGLE LOUD. Just rinse it quietly in your mouth for a few seconds and quietly spit it out onto the ground. Try to do this in a very respectful manner. 

Step 5. Finally, you will take the ladle with your right hand again, pour some water into it and tip the ladle up so that the water pours down the ladle. You are now cleansing the ladle.

3. Standing in Line/Approaching the Main Prayer Hall (haiden, 拝殿). On New Years there will be a long line in front of the Main Prayer Hall (haiden), but it moves rather quickly. As you approach the haiden, normally you would find a saisen box where you would deposit your monetary offering (saisen). In the case of Naminoue during New Years this box may not be present. Because of the expected large crowds, coins are thrown in an open lot instead. Most people deposit somewhere between 5¥ to 100¥.

4. Prayer. After you make your monetary offering, bow and clap twice and say a small prayer in silence. You will either exit to the left or right as people behind you step forward.

Omikuji/Omamori. After you have made your offerings and prayers, a common custom is to then obtain your fortune for that year. This is called an Omikuji. It will be a little folded-up paper with your fortune on it. Typically you pay a small sum, such as 100¥ and then you randomly pick it from a box. At Naminoue, you can ask for an English version. It is traditional to then tie your fortune on a place provided. You can also purchase an Omamori, which is essentially a good luck charm. There are varieties to choose from and some serve specific purposes. For example, you can purchase an omamori for exam testing or driver safety. Most people tend to get one for general health and prosperity.

Parking. On New Years Day parking will be problematic. Fortunately, most people do not stay very long and thus there will be a continuous flow of people leaving. Additionally, near the shrine you will find parking attendants moving the traffic along. People also park at a distance and then walk to the shrine. The Green Thumbtack icon in the map above is the parking lot closest to the shrine and closest to the main road. Other parking attendants may direct you to other parking locations. You will most likely see a steady flow of cars lined up. Expect to wait anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes. This could vary based on the time of day. You will have to pay to park, typically around 500¥. Other parking locations may vary.

Directions. Because of the lack of Highway signs, written instructions will be more complicated. Please study the map carefully. The Blue Route is the easiest to follow from Highway 58. The Green Route however may be easier to access the parking area but little harder to navigate to.

What to Bring. Plan for cold weather and rain no matter what the forecast. Bring an umbrella, warm coat, Yen/change, and a camera.

References.
1. Japan Guide, Visiting Temples and Shrines
2. Japan National Tourism Organization, New Year in Japan