Zatsungawa River (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)

The Zatsungawa River (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)

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Zatsungawa

      GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 49.434	E 128 14.784

      *GPS to starting point




The Zatsungawa River, ザツンガワ / 座津武川

The Zatsungawa River of Uka, Kunigami Village is one of many beautiful rivers in the northern part of Okinawa. For the outdoor enthusiast, this offers an escape into the wild and a good taste of nature. See Trekking Data below. There are some moderate to high risk areas so please read the recommended guidelines below.

Trekking Data & Information
River Name. Zatsungawa (ザツンガワ / 座津武川)
River Location. Uka, Kunigami Village (宇嘉, 国頭村)
Trek Starting Point. GPS N26 49.434 E128 14.784
Recommended Emergency Rally Point (For Emergency Vehicles). GPS N26 49.468 E128 14.632
1st Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.386 E128 14.906 (image, video)
2nd Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.384 E128 14.955 (image, video)
3rd Stopping Point. GPS N26 49.249 E128 15.037 (image, video)
Turn-Around Point. GPS N26 49.246 E128 15.130 (image, video)
Trek Time from Starting Point to Turn-Around Point. Approx 3 hrs
Total Time. 7 hrs
Video Overview.  Map It! Okinawa Video Short, Zatsungawa River.

Tip. Start your trek near the water station. Look for a metallic ladder taking you down to the river. Climb down and cross to the other side. You will see a trail and it will take you to a launch point on your trek.

Note. At the time of this river trek, the turn-around-point could not be surpassed due to the semi steep outer-terrain and the depth of water. Under warmer conditions this may be feasible. It is not recommended to submerge into water above the waist during the colder months. Please read below. The post will be updated after future attempts have been completed.

Recommended Guidelines (MUST READ!)

1. VERY IMPORTANT! This particular river trek is recommended only for those who have fairly good physical agility, coordination skills, and upper body strength. Negotiating steep inclines may be required. Recommended only for young adults and above. Though most of the trek is manageable, it does have some moderate to high risk areas.

2. VERY IMPORTANT! Plan on getting wet up to your knees. It is sometimes safer to walk in the river, rather than hopping and balancing yourself on the rocks just to keep dry. On a normal good weather day, the river current at most areas is not enough to push you off balance. Though this rule may seem trivial, it is a very important thing to remember. The biggest risk to this trek is falling and slipping on the rocks.

3. VERY IMPORTANT! In the colder months you do not want to get wet above your waist. You will run the risk of hypothermia if you continue further. Your upper body will not provide you enough heat for you to keep warm. Ideally, try to keep the water below the knees.

4. VERY IMPORTANT! It is recommended that you do not trek during the rain or after a recent rain shower. The ideal time is on an average good weather day (no rain or drizzle). During good weather the rocks above the river will be dry. This is important for grip. There are some high risk areas that will require good surface grip (feet, hands, and body) to get from point A to point B. This rule is unique to this river. Surface grip will be required to negotiate difficult terrain.

5. DO NOT WEAR TENNIS SHOES!!! Tennis shoes offer no traction and will slip on these rocks. Wear something that has hard soles and has great traction on these kinds of surfaces. If you do not have hard soles you will 'feel' every step you take. And since you will be getting wet, thick heavy boots will only get heavier when soaked. You should wear something that is lighter, has good traction, but still gives you flexibility of movement.

6. GUIDE STICK. Having a guide stick is recommended. Sometimes it will be safer to skirt the terrain just to avoid danger areas. If at some point it seems impossible to continue, look for red or yellow tape markers around the trees. Trekkers have left guide marks to assist with negotiating terrain (though on this particular river, it has not always been helpful). You will need a guide stick to probe these areas for snakes and to knock down spider webs. When you are negotiating boulders however, you will have to set your guide stick aside to free your hands for climbing. This is very important. When it comes to negotiating boulders and rocky terrain, your hands will be your best assets. This is for safety.

7. Never go alone. Have a buddy. For this particular river trek, the 'ideal' number is to have at least three (3) hiking buddies, but optimally try to have more than 3 due to the level of difficulty. If one gets hurt, then you have the option of leaving at least one with the injured while the other(s) go retrieve help. Cell phone reception is very difficult, if not non-existent in these areas. If you are a US Service Member, your nearest US Military Facility will be the Okuma Recreational Facility. It is recommended that everyone should have the number to this location should an emergency arise.

8. Tell someone (or few others), where you will be river trekking to and leave them at a minimum: the GPS coordinate of the starting point, the name of the river, and this website URL (see Trek Data Information above).

9. Wear a light long-sleeve top (depending on the weather) for protection against the elements and bugs. Whether you trek on the river or skirt the landscape, you will hit spider web after spider web (summer or winter).

10. Wear a hat or beanie to keep warm and to protect yourself against the elements and bugs. You may run into many spider webs along the way (Do a 'spider check' with your buddy every now and then). A beanie does offer some bit of head protection in the event of a fall.

11. VERY IMPORTANT! Bring some light hiking gloves for grip and protection. You may be required to grab roots, tree limbs, trees, rocks, dirt, etc. in order to negotiate terrain.

12. DO NOT WEAR SHORTS! Find something that you don't mind getting wet in and that offers protection against the elements. There 'will' be a few times you will be on your knees or on your rear end as you negotiate some of the terrain. Also you need to protect your legs from critters and abrasions. You may want to bring some shorts if you want to take a dip in the water. There are some areas that are over 7 feet deep. Swimming not recommend in the colder months.

13. VERY IMPORTANT! Apply the '3-Points of Contact Rule' when going over difficult terrain.

14. VERY IMPORTANT! Maintain a low center of gravity when going over difficult terrain.

15. If something looks unsafe, then avoid. Find another way to negotiate the terrain or SIMPLY, DON'T DO IT. Don't try to be brave. You do not have to travel far to enjoy the natural scenery.

16. Give yourself plenty of time AND TAKE YOUR TIME. NO NEED TO RUSH. But remember you have to add time to get back (before dark!). Recommend you leave early morning time frame. The rule of thumb is travel far enough so that have the same amount of time to get back. However, add an extra hour as a buffer on your return trip. (For example, if you travel 3 hours, ensure you have 4 hours of sunlight left to get back). Note. From experience, it is more dangerous on your return trip. There are two reasons; on your return trip your are more fatigued and therefore less alert; and second, gravity and descending elevation. It is usually a lot easier to climb up then it is to climb down.

17. Bring a light backpack for food, water, toilet paper, flash light, survival kit, first aid kit, light rain coat, warming layers, etc. and water proof them as needed.

18. USE THE BATHROOM BEFORE YOU GO! Making natural deposits of certain kind in the wild may not be fun for some.

19. You will get dirty. Bring a towel, extra socks, extra pair of shoes, shirt, pants, and warming layers (Can leave in the car).

20. Tuck in your shoe laces to prevent tripping.

21. Protect & secure items such as your wallet and cell phone from moisture and from getting soaked.

22. Don't try to be brave. Respect your limits and respect nature.

23. You do not have to go all the way to any of the stopping points or to the Turn-Around Point. You don't have to go far to enjoy some of the beauty along the river. Never feel pressured to continue on if you are fatigued or if it becomes too hazardous.

Directions/Parking. Take Highway 58 into Kunigami Village (to the town of Uka, 宇嘉). You will have to navigate by Landmarks annotated in the map. The turn-off point is just a few hundred meters south of the Uka Tunnel (click here for Japanese writing above the tunnel). Additionally, the Uka Tunnel is a newer tunnel. The older tunnel is fenced off to the side. It is the old Zatsun Tunnel. If you wish to park near the water station, please do not block the entrance gate as maintenance crews utilize this station.

Other Rivers in Okinawa. Takazato River, Fukugawa II, Taa Water. 

The Yabu Temple, Ryounin

The Yabu Temple, Nago City

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The Yabu Temple

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 36.342	E 127 57.127

The Yabu Temple, Ryounin - Nago City

The Yabu Temple (屋部寺) is a small Buddhist temple believed to originated some time in the 17th century. The temple resides in the town of Yabu of Nago City bordering the coastline along Highway 449 on the Motubu Peninsula. Formally, the temple is named Ryōun'in (凌雲院). The original temple was destroyed during the Okinawan War.(1)(2)(i) It was later rebuilt in 1956.(1)(2)(ii)

Though the temple is quite small, it was officially recognized by the Old Ryukyu government along with three of its local legends.(2)(3) The temple, and its legends, were recorded in an official document known as the Kyuu-you (or Kyuyo).(3)(iii) It is an historical account of the Ryukyu islands that was completed in 1745. James Robinson author of the book, Okinawa: A People and their Gods, published in 1969, also writes of one legend that have similarities to those in the official record. It's not certain if his account was derived from local villagers or from official documents belonging to the Ryukyu government. The following is a breakdown of those legends.

Legends derived from the Kyuyo

Legend One.(3) In the year 1692, drought had plagued the village of Yabu. Around the same time, sporadic fires too had wreaked havoc on the village. In an act of desperation, a Buddhist monk by the name of Ryun Washo was asked to bring prosperity to Yabu. The monk granted their request and prayed for seven days on a large stone at the base of the hill. On the seventh day rain had finally come saving the village from despair. The once problematic fires too ceased their torment on the townspeople. In his honor and to show their gratitude the villagers erected the small temple. The rock that Ryun Washo had meditated on still sits behind the temple untouched and unmarked. It sits inconspicuously in its natural environment. A documented photograph can be found on page 51 of the Yabu Historical Chronicles.(2) An photograph taken in December 2014 is shown here.

Legend Two.(3) Behind temple lived a very large snake up in the hills. It was said that this snake could blow fire from its mouth. The people frantically requested help from a Chuzan kingdom lord. The lord agreed and dispatched a man by the name of Kinjo-san from the Tenkai Temple [Note. It wasn't clear by the translation if Kinjo-san was a monk and it is not certain by the author where the Tenkai Temple is located]. Kinjo-san prayed fervently and the snake was defeated. Later, Kinjo-san had placed a large statue of Buddha inside the temple to mark the occasion. [Note. The statue is believed by the author to be the one in the middle seen in this picture].

Legend Three.(3) One day a Buddhist monk from Shuri had visited the temple. He had said that the large hill behind the temple showed great promise [perhaps indicating its spiritual value, author assertion]. However, he said that there was a split within the hills that resembled a snake's mouth. He declared that this was a bad omen under the concept of Feng Shui (Fu Sui in Japanese).(iv)(v) However, to offset this premonition the monk then placed seven statues of Buddha inside the temple to thwart off any misfortune.[Note: those statues can be seen here inside the temple].

After his work was completed, the monk decided to return to Shuri. A man from Yabu was sent with him to assist with his belongings. When they arrived back to Shuri, the monk had made a prophetic comment to the Yabu villager. He said, “tomorrow will be my death, so today please eat from the ufurunme [a type of hospitality dish?] on my behalf before you return to Yabu".(vi) As foretold, the monk passed away the very next day.

Legend from James Robinson's Research.(1) James Robinson, in his 1969 book, writes “there was a spirit named 'Akamata' which had the power to transform himself into a handsome young man”. However, Robinson does not add much in his book about the spirit's sinister deeds other than trying to lure a farmer's daughter. Interesting however, he does explain that an Enkakuji Temple monk by the name of Ryun Washo (same person from Legend One above) came from Shuri and defeated the spirit 'Akamata' by use of incantations. The Yabu Temple was then built in honor of Buddha. [Note. It is important to note that the word 'akamata' is a type of snake found in the Okinawan islands. A picture can be seen here, photographed by Shawn Miller. It's not uncommon to find snakes in Okinawan legends. See Related Links below for other snake legends of Okinawa.]

Local Ceremonies. On October 15th of the old calendar (kyureki/lunar calendar) some of Yabu's elderly and prominent townspeople preside over prayer ceremonies within the district. Ceremonies are held at 10 different places in sequential order. It is to give thanks and to pray for the the town's prosperity. The Yabu Temple is third in the order of ceremonies.(2) The ceremonies are typically lead by a kaminchu, a term meaning spiritual leader in the Okinawa language.

The Yabu Temple during New Years (Jan 1 - 3)

Local Villagers, as well as some from the nearby area, come to the Yabu Temple to celebrate New Years Day. A small ceremony starts around 2345 (1145pm) on December 31st. For those who wish to attend the Yabu Temple during New Years, below is the general sequence of events to help you through the process.

General Sequence of Events. Please note, the Yabu Temple is not a Shinto Shrine. However, there are similarities to attending both temples and shrines during New Years. The Yabu Temple is small so the process is typically is more simplified. 

1. Entering the Premise. There is a small gate entrance. This is not a torii gate. However, the gate does alert visitors they are entering a sacred area.

2. Purification Fountain. There are no purification fountains at the Yabu Temple. Typically, these kinds of fountains are found at major Shinto Shrines.

3. Omikuji (optional). People who attend the temple have the option of receiving their fortune for the New Year. This fortune is called an omikuji and can be purchased for about 100 Yen. [Note. Because of the low expected volume of foreign visitors to the temple, the omikuji here at the Yabu Temple is typically written in Japanese]. You can either take the fortune with you or tie it to a tree branch or place provided. Depending on whether your fortune is great or not, it is believed that by leaving it at the shrine or temple grounds, your fortune will either multiply in prosperity or bad luck will be diverted.(5)

4. Approaching the Temple. Typically there will be a line to approach the temple. As you approach the temple you will notice a saisen, a box where you deposit monetary offerings, anywhere from 5¥ to 100¥.

5. Prayer. Normally, you pray after you make your monetary offering. Most people bow and clap twice and say a small prayer in silence. Some may just fold there hands.

6. Ringing of the Temple Bell (optional). After you have said your prayers, individuals, couples, or family members are welcome to ring the temple bell. For proper etiquette, this is just done once as an entity.

Reference.
1. Book, Okinawa: A People and their Gods, 1969, James Robinson, Tuttle Publishing Company, pg 59, Link
2. Book, Yabu Historical Chronicles, 2002 October 27 (Japanese), published by the Town of Yabu, pg 52
3. Information Handout, Ryounin - The Yabu Temple, Published by the Town of Yabu, Image Link
4. Website, Compilation of Official Histories and Establishment of the Legal System, Okinawa Prefectural Board of Education, Link
5. Website, Shinto Shrines, Japan Guide, Link

Author's Notes.

i. The references stated that the original temple was destroyed during the Okinawan War but it did not specify details as to who or what caused its destruction.

ii. In James Robison's research he states that the temple was rebuilt in 1957. However, the Yabu Historical Chronicles, a more recent publication, states it was rebuilt in 1956.

iii. The Kyuyo is a compilation of historical events that took place in the Old Kingdom. It was completed in 1745. It also contains legends found throughout the Old Kingdom.(4)

iv. In essence, Feng Shui deals with the balance of nature. More can be read about it here at About.com

v. It's not certain where this split or "snakes mouth" is in relation to the temple. There is a split (now a road) that goes between two hills next to the Yabu Temple. See picture here. 
vi. The term ufurunme could not be found in any official resource. But interviews with Okinawan people have lead us to believe it is an Okinawan word meaning some kind of hospitality food. The latter suffix -me can mean food in the Okinawan language. Additionally, during some Okinawa funerals, family members of the deceased eat from a specially prepared meal called usande (ウサンデー) . It is not certain if the two terms have identical meaning in this context. It was theorized during this research that ufurunme could possibly be dialect from an aristocratic society, such as that found at Shuri during the Old Kingdom. As stated, there are no official references as of yet to support any of this.

Parking/Amenities. Parking. You will have to park somewhere off to the side of the road near the temple grounds. There is a parking field across the from the temple but it is own by the nursery school and gated. It may be open for the New Years. Amenities. There is a walk ramp leading up to the temple for baby strollers and those using a wheel chair.

Directions. Take Highway 58 into Nago City. Then take Highway 449 (coastline) going towards Motubu. Please study the map carefully. You will pass the Yabu Post Office (on the right) before you reach the turn-off (on the right), about 400 meters later. The turn-off is not easily recognizable. Warning. You are more likely to pass the turn-off the first time around. Be careful of making sudden stops as you see the turn-off. It will sneak up on you. See picture of turn-off here. In the interest of safety, if you pass it just turn around later. Avoid making sudden stops. There typically is a high volume of traffic on the main route. From the turn-off, follow the Blue Vehicle route designated in the map above. LandMarks (yellow diamond icons) have been placed to help you reach the temple.

Related Articles (Snake Legends of Okinawa). The Matsuda Cave & Mega Gama Ruins, Legend of Yara Muruchi.

Hatsumode, New Years at the Naminoue Shrine

Hatsumode, New Years at Naminoue Shrine

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Hatsumode, Naminoue Shrine

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 13.142	E 127 40.134

        *GPS to Pink Thumbtack Icon




Hatsumode, Naminoue Shrine

It is a Japanese tradition to start off the New Year with a visit to a Shinto Shrine. In Japanese this is called hatsumode (hatsumōde, はつもうで, 初詣) which literally means “first visit to a shrine”. Typically, families try to go on the very first day of the New Year. Others, because of their work schedule for example, may attend on the second or third day. Usually, people visit Shinto Shrines for hatsumode, but they can also visit Buddhist temples with the same aspirations. Some Japanese or Okinawan people choose to go to a certain shrine (or shrines) based on personal or local beliefs. This could depend on the person's zodiac sign and/or the upcoming zodiac year.

The Naminoue Shrine is without question the most popular Shinto Shrine in the Ryukyu Islands. Many people visit here on New Year's Day. Below is the general sequence of events on visiting the shrine on this occasion. With a few minor exceptions, it is no different than visiting any other Shinto Shrine on any given day. If you feel uncomfortable going alone, ask a Japanese friend to accompany you. Staff members at Naminoue are accustom to foreigners attending this shrine. You need not fear, just go with a little humility and patience.

Date: January 1st starting at midnight usually to January 3rd or longer.

General Sequence of Events.
1. Entering the Premises. Enter the Naminoue Shrine through the torii gate. The torii gate lets travelers know they are about to enter a sacred area. It is considered proper etiquette to stop and bow just before you enter.

 2. The Purification Fountain/Cleansing of the Body. The following is based on questions and interviews with various Japanese and Okinawan people. No official guide can be referenced on this process and not everyone may follow these steps exactly. Some may even skip it all together. But the below guidelines are the most complete. It is recommended that you observe others during this process first. The fountain at Naminoue will be on your left if you are facing the Main Prayer Hall (haiden, 拝殿).

Step 1. Approach the trough and with your right hand, pick up the ladle and scoop the "pure water" from the basin or fountain.

Step 2. Pour the water to clean your left hand. NOTE: When you are washing your hand do not let the water fall back into the pure water basin after cleansing. Let the water rinse off on the outside of the basin onto the ground. This prevents the now "soiled water" from falling back into the pure water basin. 

Step 3. Next, take the ladle with the left hand and pour the water over your right hand using guidelines in Step 2.

Step 4. (Optional) Next, you are to clean the body by taking the ladle with the right hand and making a cup with your left hand. Pour water into your left hand and then pour it into your mouth. DO NOT SWALLOW IT or GARGLE LOUD. Just rinse it quietly in your mouth for a few seconds and quietly spit it out onto the ground. Try to do this in a very respectful manner. 

Step 5. Finally, you will take the ladle with your right hand again, pour some water into it and tip the ladle up so that the water pours down the ladle. You are now cleansing the ladle.

3. Standing in Line/Approaching the Main Prayer Hall (haiden, 拝殿). On New Years there will be a long line in front of the Main Prayer Hall (haiden), but it moves rather quickly. As you approach the haiden, normally you would find a saisen box where you would deposit your monetary offering (saisen). In the case of Naminoue during New Years this box may not be present. Because of the expected large crowds, coins are thrown in an open lot instead. Most people deposit somewhere between 5¥ to 100¥.

4. Prayer. After you make your monetary offering, bow and clap twice and say a small prayer in silence. You will either exit to the left or right as people behind you step forward.

Omikuji/Omamori. After you have made your offerings and prayers, a common custom is to then obtain your fortune for that year. This is called an Omikuji. It will be a little folded-up paper with your fortune on it. Typically you pay a small sum, such as 100¥ and then you randomly pick it from a box. At Naminoue, you can ask for an English version. It is traditional to then tie your fortune on a place provided. You can also purchase an Omamori, which is essentially a good luck charm. There are varieties to choose from and some serve specific purposes. For example, you can purchase an omamori for exam testing or driver safety. Most people tend to get one for general health and prosperity.

Parking. On New Years Day parking will be problematic. Fortunately, most people do not stay very long and thus there will be a continuous flow of people leaving. Additionally, near the shrine you will find parking attendants moving the traffic along. People also park at a distance and then walk to the shrine. The Green Thumbtack icon in the map above is the parking lot closest to the shrine and closest to the main road. Other parking attendants may direct you to other parking locations. You will most likely see a steady flow of cars lined up. Expect to wait anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes. This could vary based on the time of day. You will have to pay to park, typically around 500¥. Other parking locations may vary.

Directions. Because of the lack of Highway signs, written instructions will be more complicated. Please study the map carefully. The Blue Route is the easiest to follow from Highway 58. The Green Route however may be easier to access the parking area but little harder to navigate to.

What to Bring. Plan for cold weather and rain no matter what the forecast. Bring an umbrella, warm coat, Yen/change, and a camera.

References.
1. Japan Guide, Visiting Temples and Shrines
2. Japan National Tourism Organization, New Year in Japan

The Heart Rock, Kouri Jima

The Heart Rock, Kouri Jima

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The Heart Rock

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 42.774	E 128 00.919

       *GPS to Parking Lot




The Heart Rock, Kouri Jima

On the northern shores of Kouri Jima is a small natural wonder known as the Heart Rock. Recently, this has become a popular tourist attraction as hundreds visit daily to get a glimpse of this inspirational phenomenon. Many Japanese may call this specific area a 'power spot' (pronounced phonetically by the Japanese as such). It is a term often used to describe a place that's a source of positive spiritual energy.

There are actually two protruding coral rocks. Together they may look like a pair of whale tails flipping in the ocean. It is the rock on the left that is known as the Heart Rock. Please view the photo album above or click here for more images.

Entrance Fee. Cash/Yen Only. Individual: 300 Yen. Groups: For groups with 2 or more people, you only need pay 300 Yen for the entire group. Parking and Entrance Gate is located on the map above.
Amenities/Parking. Toilet facility is available near the entrance. Parking available.
Caution. Use caution when taking the trail to the Heart Rock. Some areas are uneven and can cause to lose balance. Not accessible by wheel chair or baby strollers.
Video. Map It! Okinawa Video Short, "The Heart Rock"

Directions. Take Highway 58 North into Nago City. Then take Highway 110. You will have to cross Yagaji Island before you get to the Kouri Island Bridge. There will be signs posted on Yagaji Island directing you to Kouri Jima. Once you cross the Kouri Island Bridge navigate around the island in a clockwise direction on the main road. There will be small makeshift signs with the Japanese word, ハート ロック, which means Heart Rock directing you to the parking lot location. 

The Legend of Nanga Bozu

A lonely road near Benoki Mountains

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Benoki Dam

     GPS*

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 47.199	E 128 15.339

     *GPS is to the Benoki Dam



The Long Road from a Demon's Past...

Every other year on the 16th of January, people from the town of Benoki come together and pay their respects to a fallen ancestor. Incense burning and prayers are part of the formalities to this melancholy, yet solemn occasion. It is their way of keeping the peace in Benoki; a reverent act to tame a demon with hopes that he never returns.

Some time at the beginning of the Meiji Period...

Angry voices reverberated through the forest trees. Soon the mob would reach him. Closer and closer, they narrowed in. The man knew his attackers were not far behind.

Fate had turned against him; For it was not too long ago, when he was the one doing the chasing and harassing. Now, the shaven-headed man found himself fleeing for his life... for the second time. Shortly before that, he had fled Shuri. Something there too had caused him to go into exile. When he escaped to Benoki, he sought refuge in the Nanga Forest, high up in the Benoki mountains. No one knew his real name. He was just a shaven-headed man from Nanga. The Nanga Bozu they called him.(ii)

But his welcome was a short one. Soon after he arrived, he took advantage of the town's meek and kind-spirited demeanor. He would often maraud through the village taking whatever he wanted, especially their livestock. Women and children were constantly harassed. No one knows why he did it. He was just a wicked man. Something very dark had swelled in his soul. Now, the villagers were forced into a dilemma. Evil had made its way to their home; and the once humble and good-hearted people of Benoki found themselves in a very precarious situation. They were going to do the unthinkable.

The chase had finally come to its end. The Nanga Bozu was trapped like a wild animal. Armed with sickles, the villagers cornered the unruly man. Time, as if capable of fatigue, had limped to a halt. All that could be heard now was whispering cries of the wind; and then suddenly, that too had quietly faded away. Fear had taken root; it seemed to be the only life force the villagers had left. One by one, they closed in on the shaven-headed man. There would be no turning back now.

History for the town of Benoki was about to change... forever.

January 16th, better known as Jyuu Ryoku Nichi, is no ordinary date. In the old calendar system(iii), this is New Years for the Dead in Okinawa. The townspeople of Benoki chose that particular day to pay homage to the Nanga Bozu, or whoever that man really was many years ago. It was their way to make peace with what had happened on that tragic day; for they were truly sorry that it ended with his death. Did he deserve to die? Was justice served? Lingering questions like these continue to haunt the Benoki people.

As time went on, rumors and ghost stories drifted about of what really happened on that day in the Nanga Forest. It was said that when they slayed him, his body had fallen near a creek and that his blood had filled the entire stream. Villagers have later claimed to see the creek turn into a pool of blood. "The Nanga Bozu is returning!", they believed. This creek later became known as Uninga. In the Okinawan language this means the demon's creek.(6)(i) It was also said that when the villagers attacked the shaven-headed man, he unleashed some kind of dark magic and sorcery against them. He or it was not from this world. "Could the Nanga Bozu really come back from the dead?", they thought. For fear that he would return, the villagers would offer a pig's head as a sacrifice to appease him. But that particular tradition had faded away over time, as well as the whereabouts of the Nanga Forest and Uninga. Their location and all memory of them... lost with time. Perhaps, it was meant to be.

For now, it would seem that the true demon is nothing more than a haunted past, for it was a tragic time indeed. Humanity had suffered a loss; a man had sold his soul into a world of darkness, and a once innocent town was now left to bear the guilt for the rest of time. Despite it all, hope still remains in Benoki. In a word, the 16th of January means reconciliation. Though it is a sad moment in their history, it is a way for the villagers to revisit and learn from the past and move forward towards a happier future. The road to peace may be long, but as villagers gather on that 16th Day, it is an occasion to face their demon head on, much like their ancestors did many, many years ago in the woods of the Nanga Forest.

The Origins of the Story. The Benoki Village Chronicles (dtd 20 January 1998) explains that the incident involving the Nanga Bozu was the reason why the villagers first embraced the 16th of January as a communal occasion. But the overall story is believed to have some basis in the truth; the Nanga Bozu man did exist and that he was later hunted down for his crimes. And as for the Nanga region, that too is thought to be somewhere high in the Benoki mountains. No one really knows for sure anymore. But a different version of the story may give clues to its location. The village chronicles states that the Nanga Bozu may have been killed by the people of Uka, the next village to the north. After they killed him, they discarded his body in Benoki. Author's speculation. If this is true, then it seems highly unlikely that anyone would carry a body great distances through the mountains. This would hint that maybe the Nanga region lies somewhere near the border of Uka and Benoki.

Additionally, the village chronicles never mentions anything about Uninga, the Demon Creek, or the use of demonic powers by the Nanga Bozu. It was only mentioned in Kunigami's Historical Chronicles, dtd 1967 (note: Benoki is a town within the Kunigami Village District). This same version was later retold in the Ryukyu Shimpo, March 17th 2013 edition. It appears it was just a ghost story version that took a life of its own. So it would seem.

The Man from Shuri. An intriguing question remains; Who was this Nanga Bozu? Did he have a name? Where did he really come from? Many believe he was indeed from Shuri. Villagers had observed that he could read and write, implying that he had a formal education. This would seem to make sense, especially for someone who had lived in Shuri. It would have been rare for a commoner to have such an education during that period. Some villagers today speculated that he even might have been a monk because of his apparent level of knowledge and shaven head.

There is one last clue. The Benoki chronicles infers that the Nanga Bozu story originated some time at the beginning of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) and that he fled Shuri because of a 'conflict' that had occurred there (based on the interpretation, the translation seems to hint that it was some kind of armed conflict). It makes no mention of exactly what that conflict was.

Author's observation and conjecture. The closest and perhaps the largest political upheaval involving Shuri was in 1879 (eleven years after the birth of the Meiji Period) when the last Ryukyu King, Sho Tai, surrendered Shuri Castle and the kingdom to the Meiji Government.(5) In 2012, the Ryukyu Shimpo featured an article covering a historical play that relives that transition of power.(4) The play was titled “The Surrender of Shuri Castle”. Interesting enough, the Ryukyu Shimpo writes, “The play tells the story of when the Meiji government ordered the abolishment of the Ryukyu han (feudal domain) and forced the surrender of Shuri Castle. A confrontation ensued between the pro-Japan party and the pro-China party.” Could this confrontation be the conflict the Nanga Bozu's story was referring to? And the reason why the mystery man went into exile? This is pure conjecture. There are no facts to support this theory.

Epilogue. Benoki is a quiet town, and just as quiet is the Benoki Dam further up the hill. At first glance this functioning dam seems deserted. Not many people come here. There is a certain emptiness about the place. And when you arrive at the dam, you'll find yourself immediately engulfed by the Benoki mountains. Somewhere in that vast abyss of forest greenery lies the Nanga Forest. And what of the Nanga Bozu? Today, there is no indication that people of Benoki believe in any such ghost. It is just a haunted memory. But a stroll around the perimeter is revealing. As you explore the back roads, one cannot help but to feel that you are being watched. And as you gaze into the whispering treeline, one cannot help but to wonder that somewhere within the forest shadows is a lost soul, a specter of the past, silently waiting his return.

Related Articles. Jyuu Roku Nichi - New Year's for the Dead.

Other Okinawan Ghost Stories. Haunted Ruins in Kyoda, Legend of the Okukubi River.

Other Places to Visit Nearby. The Benoki Utaki.

Reference.
1. Nanga Bozu, Benoki Village Chronicles, Book, dtd 20 January 1998 (Azashi Benoki January 20 Heisei 16), pgs 213 -214
2. Nanga Bozu (Ghost Story), Kunigami's Historical Chronicles, Book, dtd 1967, pg 78
3. Nanga Bozu (Ghost Story), Ryukyu Shimpo, Newspaper, dtd 17 March 2013
4. Historical Play - "The Surrending of Shuri Castle", online article, dtd 12 December 2013
5.  Sho Tai surrenders the  Ryukyu Kingdom - Resistant Islands: Okinawa Confronts Japan and the United States, book, McCormack, Norimatsu, Pub 16 July 2012, pg 4
6. Definition of uni - Okinawan-English Wordbook, book, Sakihara, University of Hawaii Press 2006, pg 195 .
7. Dates of the Meiji Period - Encyclopedia Britannica, online reference

Notes.

i. Uni in the Okinawan dialect means demon. In Japanese this is pronounced as Oni. Ga is Okinawan (usually annexed as a suffix) is a term that means water or stream. The extra n in the middle of Uninga could be a variant of the Okinawan language of how it is pronounced. In the Benoki Chronicles it is spelled with an extra n.
ii. Bozu is a Japanese term often referring to someone or something that is bald.
iii. The Old Calendar (kyureki in Japanese) refers to the Lunar Calendar which is still observed in many parts of Okinawa, particular in rural areas. The New Calendar (shinreki) is the current Gregoria Calendar System. It is not uncommon to find calendars made in Okinawa that have both dates. Typically, spiritual occasions are observed on the Old Calendar System.

Directions. Take Highway 58 north into Kunigami Village. The turn-off will be at large Silo-like structure off of Highway 58 (See LandMark Icon on the map). The road will zig-zag up the hills. You will pass a large wooden Torii next to a small concrete fenced off building (See LandMark Icon on the map). Continue further up the hill until you run into the Benoki Dam.