Taachii Ishi, Perry's Banner Rock

"The Banner Rock"

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Perry's Banner Rock

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 16.537	E 127 47.300

Taachii Ishi, Perry's Banner Rock

On 26 May 1853, an American expedition led by Commodore Matthew C. Perry arrived at Napha Port (Naha)(i). Four days later, on May 30th, Commodore Perry dispatched a small exploration team to go ashore and survey the surrounding area. The team was lead by an Officer, a chaplain by the name of Mr. Jones, accompanied by a Mr. Bayard Taylor who was appointed to document their journey, and 10 other members.(1,2) Their journey would take them from Shuri Castle to Nakagusuku Castle by way of a road called Hanta Michi or Hanta Road.(2) Along the way, they noticed a very large rock formation on a ridge line that divided the western and eastern part of the island (1) (This ridge line also happens to be the location of Arakaki Gusuku ruins).

Memorized by the summit's beauty, Mr. Taylor wrote the following passage in his journal,

“...we came upon a singular rock, rising high out of a forest of pines. The summit which was very sharp and jagged, was seventy or eighty feet above the crest of the ridge, and being composed of secondary limestone, honeycombed by the weather, it was an exceedingly striking and picturesque object.” (1)

Mr. Bayard then ascended up the summit and after witnessing its amazing panoramic view, ordered for the American Flag and hoisted it up as his men down below fired their guns in salute. To mark the occasion, the team named it, the “Banner Rock”.(1)

The moment was indeed inspirational, which then prompted a team member (Mr. Heine) to sketch the scene.(1)ii This same sketch is visible on a historical sign placed by the Nakagusuku Village Office (on location) and is also found on page 168 of Perry's narrative. This photograph (February 2014) is from an estimated angle of where the sketch was taken from.

The local Okinawans call this rock formation taachi ishi meaning two rocks (also pronounced as taachaa ishi). However, on March 7, 1997 the Nakagusuku Village Office officially bestowed the name “Perry's Banner Rock” to commemorate its historical value.(2) For further reading on Commodore Perry's exploration team, visit Archive.org under Narrative of the Expedition of an American Squadron to the China Seas and Japan, Chapters 8 (pgs 162-186).

References.
1. Narrative of the Expedition of an American Squadron to the China Seas and Japan, 1856
pg 151, Chapter 7 (Arrival into Naha and exploration team dispatched)
pg 167, Chapter 8 (Mr. Bayard Taylors's description of the summit – Quotation)
pg 168 , Chapter 8 (Picture of the Banner Rock)
2. Nakagusuku Historical Sign (On location, English translated)

Notes.

i. The name Napha is heavily used in Perry's Narrative to describe what is considered now Naha City. It is not certain by the author if this was used because of the Okinawan's pronunciation or what Perry's expedition team had misinterpreted.

ii. Mr. Heine is mentioned by Mr. Bayard as the person who “stopped to sketch it [the rock formation]” and his name can also be found on the bottom left hand corner of the sketch.

Caution. There is a makeshift ladder to help you get near the top, however this ladder is somewhat old. Please use extreme caution should you decide to scale the summit. Some climbing will be required. Please do not attempt if you are not in great physical condition. Gloves are recommended.

Directions/Parking. The most direct route is to take Highway 329 to Nakagusuku Village to Highway 35. You will then be going up a hillside. Your first LandMark will be the “Okinawa Pref. Fire Academy” sign. Continue pass this and make the 1st right (see picture). Continue straight. You will pass the Arakaki Gusuku Ruins on your left. Continue straight till you arrive at the viewing area (see picture). There will be parking available. That same road is also called Hanta Michi. Though you will not be able to drive any further, Hanta Michi (alternate route) takes you towards Nakagusku Castle.

The Largest Cherry Tree on Okinawa?

The Oarashi Cherry Tree (January  30, 2014)

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Largest Cherry Tree in Okinawa?

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 39.904	E 127 55.606

The Oarashi Cherry Tree

North of Mt. Yae, in a small town called Inoha, is a tiny village called Oarashi (大嵐). It is here you will find one of the largest cherry trees (if not the largest) on Okinawa. It is the pride and joy of this little village. Though the tree belongs on private property, it sits prominently high along the hillside near the main road. There is no official record stating its dimensions, but it estimated to stand at 27 feet high (8.2 meters) and 42 ft (12.8 meters) wide at its girth (see size comparison in this photo with photographer Michael Lynch taken in early 2013). To see the tree in full bloom please visit this blog article (Japanese) posted in 2013 (picture taken in 2006).

Tracing the tree's origins. The tree was first spotted during an exploration on the Motobu mountain ranges in 2012. The site was revisited in January 2013 only to find very few blossoms (2013 turned out to be a very bad year for cherry blossoms. We speculate that it had something to do with the severe 2012 typhoon season). The age of the tree is really not certain. Ms. Takara (property owner) in 2013 had speculated the age to be over a 100 years old. A few others in that area have also made that claim. Others have speculated it to be 300 years old. The aforementioned blog article claimed the age to be of 200 years. He (or she) even states that the tree suffered damages during the war. None of this has been independently verified. 

The age is somewhat of a mystery, and begs two other questions; 1) When did the cherry trees come to Okinawa? It is said they came from Taiwan(1), but when they came from Taiwan is not very clear by the author and 2) How long do these particular trees live? An article published by the Orlando Sentinel (April 2003) states that the average life span of the Prunus campanulata (the Taiwan variant) is between 30 to 40 years(2). On Mt. Yaedake alone, the trees were planted in 1963 when the United States returned Mt. Yae back to the Okinawans. That would make the trees on Mt. Yae over 50 years old counting from 2014.(3)

It is not uncommon to hear of various types of cherry trees living long past their expected time. The Yoshino Cherry Trees in Washington D.C., given to the United States by Japan in 1912, are said to be over a 150 years old.(4) The Miharu-Takizakura cherry tree in Japan is said to be 1,000 years old!(5)

Are there others in Okinawa? Is the Oarashi Cherry Tree the largest of its kind on Okinawa? Deep in the Nago Mountains you will also find some very, very large cherry trees. Another tree is said to rival the one in Oarashi; somewhere else on the Motobu Peninsula. Are there others? The hunt continues.

References.
1. Okinawa Story, Sakura (Cherry Blossoms)
2. Orlando Sentinel, April 2003 (Online Edition), Tree
3. Ryukyu Shimpo, February 2013 (Online Edition), Fallen cherry trees reborn as new products 
4. San Francisco Chronicle, date unavailable (Online Edition), How Old Can a Cherry Tree's Life Span Be? 5. The Telegraph, April 2011 (Online Edition), 1,000-year-old cherry tree gives hope to Japan nuclear victims 
6. Rakuten Blog Post (Japanese), Feb 2013

Author's Notes. How well the cherry blossoms bloom can vary from year to year on Okinawa. The Oarashi Cherry Tree may have a great blooming season once in while and may not occur during subsequent seasons.

Recommendations (PLEASE READ!). The Oarashi Cherry Tree sits on private property but it is highly visible from the public road. The neighbors in that area are aware of the reputation the tree brings to the little village and accustom to visitors wanting to take pictures. However, please be respectful in mannerism and treat this as private property. It is highly recommended that you don't park in the immediate area as this may interfere with traffic and day-to-day operations. It is recommended that you park at the Green Thumbtack/LandMark marked on the map. Please take your pictures from the public road. Use your best judgement.

Parking. See Recommendations above.

Directions. Take Highway 58 north to Nago City and then take Highway 449 to the Motobu Peninsula. Take Highway 84 going east towards Mr. Yaedake. There will be a turn-off just before the main entrance to Mt. Yaedake. See Blue Route in the map above. The turn-off is about 20 meters west of the main entrance and goes in the opposite direction of Mt. Yae. Follow the blue route. Your first LandMark is a tall road sign. You will turn right on this corner. Continue another 2.5 km till you see the next LandMark. It will be a similar sign as the first landmark. It is highly recommended that you park here. It is about a one minute walk up the hill as you bend around the corner. 

The Tomb of King Gihon

The Tomb of King Gihon

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The Tomb of King Gihon

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 51.507	E 128 15.658

The Tomb of King Gihon

One of the mysteries surrounding the Old Ryukyu Kingdom is the disappearance of King Gihon, the third and last king of the Shunten Lineage.(1,4) The fallen leader relinquished his throne to King Eiso in the 13th Century due to a set of failures (famine, drought, etc.) that plagued his rule.(1,2,3) It is widely believed that after his abdication he fled north to a place that Okinawans call Asumui located near Cape Hedo of the present day Kunigami Village District. His tomb is believed to be in the town of Hedo(3), some 50 meters away from Highway 58. 

On February 20, 2013 the Kunigami Board of Education reopened the tomb to examine the contents inside. It was discovered that at least 5 to 6 sets of human remains were found in a very large burial urn (broken on one side). Because of the urn's size (1 meter in diameter) researchers believe it was placed inside the tomb before it was totally encased. The belief that King Gihon was buried in Hedo seems to date back past the latter part of the 19th Century. It was said that members from the Sho Family (some time during the Meiji Period, 1868-1912) traveled to Hedo to restore the burial site.(1,4) How the news of Gihon's death and whereabouts of his remains got back to Shuri is not clear.

Born in 1206, Gihon became king in 1249. Okinawans would endure widespread tragedy throughout his tenure.(1,2,3) As a result, he initially appointed Eiso as a regent (sessei) to manage his affairs and after 11 years, he finally relinquished all power to Eiso.(1,4) But even during his rule, it would appear that King Gihon desperately tried to improve the situation for his kingdom. It was once said that he offered himself as a human sacrifice in exchange for much needed rain. Legend has it that the gods where apparently pleased and Gihon's life was spared at the last moment as rain finally descended from the heavens dousing the pyre of where he was to be burned alive.(3) King Gihon also had a minor role in the Legend of Yara Muruchi which took place in what is now present day Kadena Town. See article, Legend of Yara Muruchi.

Epilogue. It is not conclusive if the remains in Hedo belong to the King Gihon, or who the other remains belong to. Further analysis is still required. Others claim his final resting place is in Kitanakagusuku Village.(1) The tomb in Hedo does seem fitting for a king however. Though you may not be able to see it when standing in front of the tomb (masked by trees that lay behind it), the mausoleum sits below Mt. Nishime, considered by some as one of the most sacred areas of Okinawa. 

Author's Note.

1. Asumui is an Okinawan name you will seldom see in English literature on Okinawa. Some Okinawans rank Asumui (to include Mt. Nishime) up there with Sefa Utaki in terms of its spiritual value . It is not certain what the first half of the word means, but the term mui is of the Okinawan language meaning forest often used as a suffix for the entire name.

2. The belief that King Gihon abdicated his own throne is one theory. Information provided by the Kunigami Village District (sign on site in English) also notes that he might have been forced out of power by an angry mob, and fled for his safety. They acknowledge it is not exactly certain how the change of power between King Gihon and Eiso occurred.
3. Though his abdication is considered a mainstream theory, it is not clear by the author where it was originally documented. Further investigation is pending.

Reference.
1. Human Remains and Ornaments Found in a Burial Urn Possibly Confirm Tomb, Ryukyu Shimpo, February 21, 2013 (Online Edition).
2. Visions of Ryukyu, 1999 Gregory Smits, pg 61
3. Okinawa: People and Their Gods, 1969, James C. Robison, pgs 31, 62
4. Information sign on site (in English) provided by the Kunigami Village Office

Directions. King Gihon's tomb is in Hedo of Kunigami Village. Take Highway 58 north to Hedo. Once you pass the turn-off that takes you to Cape Hedo, look for a Kunigami Village historical marker on the left or right side of the road. The tomb is about 50 meters from the highway. Parking is available on the opposite side.

Mount Yonaha

The trail to Mt. Yonaha

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Mount Yonaha (Yonaha-dake)

     GPS*

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 43.919	E 128 12.545

       

       *GPS to parking area



Mount Yonaha, Kunigami Village

The highest mountain on the Okinawa main island is in Kunigami Village. It is Mt. Yonaha (Yonaha-dake) standing at 503 meters above sea level.(1)(i) The hike is about a 2 to 2 1/2 hour trip to the top. The trail is well beaten down with a mild grade towards the peak. It is a very easy climb for those who wish to bring their children. The scenic view at the top, however, is essentially non-existent since dense vegetation surrounds the entire peak as well as much of the trail along the way.

The Highest Point. As of November 21, 2013 there was no official sign designating the highest point of the mountain (503 meters). There was, however, a sign marking 498 meters (near the top). With recent amenities added (improved parking area, a toilet facility, new signs etc.), there is indication in the near future that the Kunigami Village Office may officially mark the highest point for tourism purposes.

So Where is the Highest Point? It is believed that the 503 meter point is the hill just before you reach the 498 meter marker. In fact you pass it without realizing it. As of November 21, 2013 there was a small tree right along the trail with three rings of red tape around it and the number 503 marked on it. The GPS of that location does seem to match the Google terrain map as the highest point, but this still remains unofficial till the Kunigami Village Office formally places the marker.

Summary of Information.
Name: Mt Yonaha, Yonaha-dake (与那覇岳)
Elevation of Highest Point: 503 Meters (1650.26 ft)
GPS Highest Point (503 Meters): N26 43.029 E128 13.118 (unconfirmed)
GPS 498 Meter Point: N26 42.974 E128 13.085
GPS Starting Point: N26 43.925 E128 12.546
Parking Area: 100 meters from the trail starting point
Estimated Time of Completion: Round Trip 4-5 hours
GPS Recommended Emergency Rendezvous Point: Same as parking area
Difficulty Level: Very Low.
Parking and Toilet Facility: Available near the trail starting point
Cellphone Reception. Signal received at the top (Au phone)

Recommended Guidelines. (PLEASE READ!!!)
1. Age. Climbing is suitable for young adults as well as children. The path is well beaten but there are areas where you can trip on tree roots and cut yourself on low lying branches, particularly broken bamboo. You may also find areas where trees have fallen along the path that you may have to negotiate. Parents must use their discretion on the ability of their children. Children must avoid running or playing along the trail. A good trip and you'll risk a good cut to the facial area.
2. Wear shoes or boots that have good traction. Tennis shoes should be okay.
3. IMPORTANT!!! Bring plenty of water. This is about a 4-5 hour excursion. Recommend bringing snacks or a light lunch. Pack out what you pack in.
4. Tuck in all loose straps to include shoe laces to prevent getting snagged and tripping.
5. Highly recommend hiking gloves of some kind. You may be required to climb using your hands in some areas to include fallen trees.
6. Base your clothing on the time of year and comfort level.
7. Bug repellent. Bring per your discretion. Mosquitoes are more prevalent in the hotter months.
8. Let someone know where you are going, and recommend a climbing buddy.
9. This is a wildlife protected area. Please do not take anything out of the forest; this includes plant life.

Notes.
i. The highest mountain in Okinawa Prefecture is Mt. Omote in Ishigaki Island at 526 meters(2)

References.
1. Mt. Yonaha, Highest Mountain on Okinawa main island, www.okinawastory.jp
2. Mt. Omote, the highest in mountain in Okinawa Prefecture, Japan National Tourism Organization

Directions. Take Highway 58 north to Kunigami Village. There will be a sign directing you to Hiji Falls (near the Family Mart). Take this same road. About 250 meters you will then turn left on the second paved road. You may see this sign on the left-hand sign. About 250 meters you will run into a main road (this sign will be to your front). Going left takes you to an elementary school. You will want to go right. Immediately, you will be moving up hill. Follow this road straight. About 5km (3 miles) later you will run into a T-intersection. You will see a Peace Pole to your front and a parking area to the right. You will also see a explanation sign about Mt. Yonoha. The beginning of the trail is about another 150 meters to the east. The vehicle route to the parking area is marked in blue in the map above.

Other Hiking Trails on Okinawa. Awa-dake, Katsuu-dake, Furushi-dake, Motobu Fuji.

Other Places of Interest Nearby. The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum.

The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum

The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum

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The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 44.002	E 128 11.427

The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum, Kunigami Village

On November 2, 2013, a very small art museum debuted in Hentona of Kunigami Village. This is no ordinary museum, however. Here, you can play with the artwork. It is the Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum and the artwork, of course, are the toys...all made from natural wood. The theme...introducing nature using a language that all children can understand; the language of 'play'.

All the toys are made of wood from trees found here in Japan. Since the museum is in Okinawa however, some toys are composed of wood from the Ryukyu Pine, trees native to the Okinawa islands.(1)(2)(3) The Ryukyu Pine is also Okinawa's prefectural tree, thereby making the pine very special. Hence, the material used for these toys only come from damaged trees, such as those destroyed during typhoons.(1,2,4) The museum is quite small, only occupying about 144 square meters (1600 square feet), and perhaps for good reason; any larger, you may find yourself out breath as you try to keep up with your children bouncing from one end to the other. To get a video preview inside the museum, click here. 

The museum is sponsored and organized by the Good Toy Association, a non-profit organization based in Mainland, Japan. They direct other natural toy museums throughout country. Their website is www.goodtoy.org (click here for the sublink to the Okinawan museum).

Sai On Matsu, a Link to the Past. In Japanese, the Ryukyu Pine is pronounced as Ryukyu Matsu; matsu (松) meaning pine. Some Okinawans, however, may use the term shima matsu (island pine) to describe this type of tree. There is another name that is seldom used these days. It is the term Sai On Matsu (蔡温松).(5)  Sai On is actually a name belonging to a very famous political figure and scholar (1682-1763) during the reign of King Sho Kei (1713-1751).(6) In fact, he was one of the members belonging to the Council of Three (Sanshinkan, 三司官) that served as regents for the royal crown.(7) Sai On made many contributions with academic and scholarly writings ranging from personal conduct and behavior to policies governing land management. His writings and studies on forestry conservation would form the bulk of an 8 volume publication, Rinsei Hassho, (Eight Writings on Forestry Management) which was published posthumously in 1885, almost a century later.(6)(i) To many, he is considered the father of Okinawa's forestry conservation movement. The museum in many ways is a continuation of Sai On's work.

The term Sai On Matsu does not seem to describe just one pine tree, but a group of trees planted in a methodical or densely populated fashion; for example, trees planted along side a major road or on a tiny pocket of land such as a small forest.(ii) In Hedo of Kunigami Village, near the Tomb of King Gihon, there is a forest area named the Sai On Pine Tree Preservation Park, a name which gives tribute to the highly acclaimed scholar. 

The Kunigami Forest Park. The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum is part of the Kunigami Forest Park. There you will find a network of trails and view points that highlight the beauty of the Kunigami forest.

Recommendations (Please Read Before You Go!). Because the toy museum is rather small (144 square meters), you may not want to make this your primary destination if you live 2 hours away. If you are however, in the neighborhood and looking for a 30 minute timeout with the kids or plan on staying at the Okuma Recreational Facility then this may be a good option for you. Please avoid if your children are sick or have a cold.

Name (English). The Yanbaru Forest Toy Museum
Name (Japanese). Yanbaru Mori Omocha Bijyutsukan (やんばる森おもちゃ美術館)
Entrance Fee. Free till April 2014. Prices have not been determine yet.
Hours. 10am-4pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Phone Number. 098 041 5421
Sponsor. The Good Toy Association
Sponsor Website. Goodtoy.org
Video. A Map It! Okinawa Video Short

References.

1. Good Toy Organization (Sponsor)
2. Blog Article - Wall Street Journal 
3. Native Okinawan Village and Omoro Arboretum (Ryukyu Pine)
4. Okinawa's Prefectural Website
5. Ryukyu Cultural Archives Website, Sai On Matsu (Okinawa Prefectural Board of Education)
6. Sai On reference. Ryukyu: Bibliographical Guide to Okinawan Studies, Dr. Shunzo Sakamaki, University Hawaii Press 1963 Pg 49.
7. Sanshinkan meaning. Okinawa: History of an Island People, George Kerr, Revised Edition 2000, Tuttle Publishing, pg 123

Notes.
i. Sai On originally wrote 7 volumes regarding forestry and conservation. An 8^th publication, the Onsashizu Hikae (Copy of Instructions), was added in 1885, by the prefectural government. (6)

ii. A Okinawan view of the word forest may be different of that of a western viewpoint. Mui is the Okinwan word for forest and it could be a small pocket of densely populated trees and not necessarily acres and acres of land.  

Directions. Take Highway 58 north into Kunigami Village. You will continue on Highway 58 passing the turn-off that takes you to Hiji Falls. Look for a highway sign that says Forest Park just before you reach the Hentona Tunnel. There you will make a right turn (if heading north on Highway 58). As soon as you make the right turn immediately look for a wooden sign directing you to the Kunigami Forest Park. At the sign, make a left and continue to follow that road directly in the forest park. LandMark images have been added to the map.