"The Old Higashionna Village Museum"

Doorway to the Past, the Higashionna Village Museum

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Higashionna Village Museum

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 24.529	E 127 49.783

The Old Higashionna Village Museum

The aftermath of the 'Great Okinawan War' left many Okinawans distraught about the future of their homeland. It also left behind pieces of their heritage scattered throughout the rumble and carnage of the 82-Day campaign. Pages torn and wiped clean from the history books at an instant. Some lost forever. Putting it back together would be a major task. At the forefront in helping the Okinawans repair and preserve part of their history were two Naval Officers, Lt. Cmdr. Willard A. Hannah* and Lt. Cmdr. James T. Watkins. On August 30th 1945, they opened a museum in a small house in Higashionna of Ishikawa, now Uruma City. It was first dubbed the Okinawa Exhibition Hall and was later changed to the 'Higashionna Village Museum' shortly after 24 April 1946 when ownership of the museum changed hands to the Okinawan Civil Government. The efforts of both men would lead to a bigger push to help the Okinawans preserve what was left of their culture and history, a process that would take decades. Cultural assets were transferred from one museum location to another, from Higahshionna to Shuri and then to its present day resting place in Omoromachi, Naha City. On November 1st 2007, a new and much larger complex was opened to the public and was given the official name, 'The Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum'.

Present Day. The old 'Higashionna Village Museum building still stands today. At first glance, you would think it was just any old house in the neighborhood. For all intents and purposes, it is. It remains on private property to this day. And because it is on private land, the owner, Mr. Taira, has the lone responsibility as caretaker of the 100+ year old building. Mr. Taira, an elderly man, is very proud of this historical monument, but has expressed concern of its future. All responsibility for the upkeep and maintenance now falls on his shoulders, a task perhaps too great for one person. Is there help on the way? It is uncertain at the moment. Nevertheless, Mr. Taira takes on his duty proudly and understands the importance of this historical building. It was the centerpiece for putting the pieces of Okinawa history back together.

The Mystery of Enkakuji Bells. According to the Prefectural Museum's website (source 1), Capt Hanna played an important role on retrieving the 'Enkakuji Bell' from the Philippines. On the same website they show Mr. and Mrs. Hanna in 1990 standing next to a large bell similar to one that is seen in the garden at the Higashionna Museum in the 1940's. These images (image1, image2) courtesy of Donn Cuson, www.rememberingokinawa.com, do show two bells, both different in size that once stood at the Higashionna Village Museum. There was also a third Enkakuji Bell, though it is not certain if it was also at the museum. According to the Okinawa Prefectural Board of Education, three bells had existed at the Enkakuji Temple (source 3), but it is not exactly certain how the temple bell that Capt Hanna helped retrieve got to the Philippines in the first place. Efforts are now being made to verify the location of all three bells, two of which are believed to be in the Prefectural Museum (pending verification). Sources have said the other bell is under the care of another historical organization. Nevertheless, at the old Higashionna Village Museum you can still see where the two bells once stood many, many years ago. Two of the bells hung on each side of a small wall near the main entrance. Okinawans call this type of wall, a 'hinpun', which was used to keep out evil spirits from entering the premises. The 'hinpuns' are rarely seen now, with the exception at old residential areas.

The Well and the Garden Pond. Other items of historical interest that can still be seen on the old museum grounds include a large concrete well and the old garden pond which is said to be shaped like a human heart. images3 and images4 were photos taken between 2012-2013. Images5 and images6 were taken over 5 decades ago (courtesy of Donn Cuson, www.rememberingokinawa.com).

Online Historical Document. To see more on the Higashionna Village Museum please refer to this PDF (16.9MB) document at rememberingokinawa.com. You will also find a wealth of historical images of Okinawa on the website.

Visitation. Because the Higashionna Village Museum sits on private property, it can only be viewed from the outside unless given expressed permission by the owner to enter. The owner, Mr. Taira, is a very nice Okinawan man, but may not be on the actual premises when you visit. If he happens to be outside doing some yard work, you can ask permission for a closer look. In front of the old museum, you will a explanation sign translated into English, by the Uruma City Board of Education.

Directions. Take Highway 329 into Ishikawa of Uruma City (not the Highway 329 By-pass). You will see a LandMark Sign (big pointing arrow, now painted white). Turn east on this street and it will be the second street on the right. The old museum will be on the left. You will able to tell by the red tiled roof. 

Notes.
* Uruma City Board of Education does have the rank as Lt. Cmdr Hannan. However, the Museum Prefectural Website refers to Mr. Hanna as a Navy Captain. 

Source of Information.
1. http://www.museums.pref.okinawa.jp/english/museum/history/index.html
2. http://www.rememberingokinawa.com/page/docs/RESEARCH_DOCUMENTS_1
3. http://rca.open.ed.jp/web_e/history/story/epoch2/kakuritu_up/up08.html

"Melody Road - Futami, Nago City"

Melody Road in Futami, Nago City

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Melody Road - Futami, Nago City

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 33.001	E 128 02.070

Melody Road - Futami, Nago City

A road that plays music?...

On the eastern side of Nago City next to the Ōura-wan Bay lies a small inconspicuous town called Futami. And right across, in the neighboring town of Ōura, sits an old abandoned hotel (top right in picture above) stealing the whole scene as travelers pass by gazing and pondering over its ill-fated demise. But decades before this hotel was built, something else was conceived...an old and famous Okinawan folk song called Futami jōwa (also pronounced and spelled as Hutami jōwa  二見情話). In 1945 some time during the war, two Okinawans, by the direction of US Forces, were told to vacate the Mabuni area (present day Itoman). They had first moved to Yonabaru, but then finally settled in Futami on June 20th, 1945 just days before the end of the war. Shortly after (perhaps out of inspiration for surviving a hellish and war-torn region), they decided to write a song about their new home, Futami. For two months they worked on it and in November of 1945, the Okinawan folk song, Futami jōwa, was born.

Over a Half-Century Later. Sixty-seven years later, inspiration returns to Futami once again. This time with the help of science. For several months using math and the laws of physics, road crews carved out specially cut grooves along 340 meters stretch of road. Driving over it makes a special sound. The end result; a road that plays music. The song,...Futami jōwa. Late November 2012, in the same month that the original song was created 67 years ago, an official ribbon cutting ceremony was conducted and 'Melody Road' was officially open to the public, and the villagers of Futami were once again filled with great honor.

How to Hear the Song (please read the following).
1. The grooves only exist on one side of the road. You have to pass the entire song first on the non-cutting side and then turn around at the starting point. Turn around right around this sign area.
2. The starting point of the song is denoted by a 'blue painted G-Clef' music symbol on the road. You will also see a yellow traffic sign as seen in this picture.
3. To hear the music, make sure your windows are down. Once you pass the starting point, your car needs to be traveling at an average of 40 kph. The song ends 340 meters later.

Hear the Music (Video). To hear the actual music on Melody Road being played click on THIS YOUTUBE VIDEO produced by OkiNinjaKitty. To hear the same song performed with a sanshin and vocals click ON THIS YOUTUBE VIDEO for comparison.

The Song's Meaning. The song is written as a duet between a man and a woman. In summary, it is a song of love and of hardship about a man from Shuri and a woman (origins not specified) longing to be with each other, never to be separated again. The song starts out describing a wonderful place with pretty mountains next to a beautiful ocean,... a place called Futami. And it is there, the couple wish to marry and to forget the past, to forget the war, and to live happily every after.

The Dedication Stone. Part of the song's lyrics can be seen carved in a Dedication Stone behind the Futami Community Center (See map icon above). The story behind Futami jōwa is also written down below.

Direction. Take Highway 329 north into Nago City. Then take Highway 331 veering east. You will pass through two tunnels. After the second tunnel it will be your first left. You will end up passing the entire song to get to the starting point. Make a U-turn near this road sign and look for the blue painted G-Clef music symbol along with this yellow sign.

Source of Information. Song origin and information derived from the Dedication Stone. Opening Ceremony information: http://ryukyushimpo.jp/news/storyid-199673-storytopic-5.html.

Related Articles. http://blog.mikesryukyugallery.com/2013/01/music-from-highway-in-okinawa-japan.html

Notes.
The names of the song's creator is on the Dedication Stone. It is of a Mr. Teruya. The second name is believed to be a relative sharing the same last name, which lead us to believe that it was 'two' who left the Mabuni region. It is possible that more had fled to Futami. Further research is pending.

"The Kushi Kannon-do Temple"

The Kushi Kannon-do Temple, Nago City

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Kushi Kannon-do Temple

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 30.909	E 128 00.716

The Kushi Kannon-do Temple

In a small town in Nago City on the eastern side of Okinawa lies a very small Buddhist temple called the Kushi Kannon-do. Inside the temple is a statue of a Bodhisattva carved out of stone. It is a statue of Kannon-sama, often known as the 'Goddess of Mercy'. In Chinese, she is referred to as Guanyin. Though perhaps mostly viewed as female, the Bodhisattva is sometimes depicted as taking a male form. Villagers from the Kushi area would sometimes call this statue, 'tira nu tame', which translates to as 'the old man who lives in the temple' in local Okinawan dialect(1).

It is believed that around 1688 was when this temple was first constructed and then later renovated in 1973. The temple is mostly made of 'Chagi' wood (Okinawan Hogen name) or 'Inumaki' in Japanese (Podocarpus macrophyllus). It is local custom that nearby villagers come here 4 times every month to pray and worship. January 18th, September 18th, and December 24th of the Lunar Calender are major religious days of observation where villagers come here to pray for the town's prosperity. They also come here to pray for personal needs such as for a safe voyage or for a healthy birth of a child. If someone died from the village they would also come here to pray that their soul enters heaven without any regret or remorse.

Mysterious Origins. There is some confusion about the temple's origin. The explanation sign near the temple only goes as far as to say that a lord from the Tomigusuku region had given this stone statue to a man in Kushi, but never gave any explanation on why. However, in a old book written in 1969 by James C. Robinson, called 'Okinawa: A People and Their Gods', an aji (meaning lord) from the Kushi region was visiting China when he had become seriously ill. The aji prayed to this particular statue of Buddha and subsequently became well. He had brought back the statue to Kushi and erected this small temple in its honor. If indeed, the latter story is true, then it goes to show the extensive communication channels that had existed previously with China from even the most remote areas of Okinawa.

Other areas near the temple. Close to the temple you will find a Kushi War Memorial that overlooks the ocean and a memorial giving tribute to citizens of Kushi (history not certain at this time).

Recommendations. Villagers still come here to pray. If you do happen to arrive during a prayer session, just keep a respectable distance till the prayer session is done. There are some interesting things to see in this small corner of town to keep you plenty occupied while you wait.

Source of Information. Explanation sign on site (in Japanese), Book: Okinawa: A People and Their Gods, James C. Robinson, 1969, pg 59.

Notes.
1. The word 'tira' (ティラ) means 'temple' in the Okinawan language. It is important to note that the sound 'ti' does not exist in standard Japanese pronunciation. This is only used in the old Okinawan dialect.

Directions/Parking. Take Highway 329 (in Nago) and turn on Highway 13 (see blue route on the map). The turn-off for Highway 13 will have this billboard directing you to the Kannon-do Temple. The temple will be very close to these Landmarks near the road: the Kushi War Memorial and the Torii Gate (memorial shrine) opposite of the Kushi War Memorial. There is a parking area near the temple.

"Awa-dake"

On the far left is Awa's 1st peak and near left of middle is Awa's summit. Yae is in the middle, with Katsuu and Furushi to the right.

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Awa-dake

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 37.247	E 127 56.184

        *GPS to Parking Area




Awa-dake

Across from Yae and Katsuu sits their smaller sister Awa, which is only about 20 meters shy of both her siblings – Yae-dake being the tallest at 454 meters and Katsuu at 452 meters. But the climb to the top of Awa is what sets her apart from her sisters. It takes about 5-6 hours to complete the entire Awa loop which is composed of two prominent peaks that define the Awa-dake mountain range. This time window includes a little exploring that you will be doing mid-way as you search out some of the caves along the way. Because the length of time it takes to complete the Awa trail please read the entire post. There are some safety considerations that must be taken into account.

Summary Information.
Name: Awa-dake
Elevation of the Highest Point. 432 meters (1417 feet)(1)
First Peak Coordinate: GPS N26 37.507 E127 55.798
Second Peak (Highest) Coordinate: GPS N26 37.768 E127 55.719
Starting Point Coordinate: GPS N 26 37.248 E 127 56.195 (Katsuyama Community Center)
Estimated Time for Completion: 5– 6 hours (to complete the entire trail loop, this includes exploring midway).
Parking Area Area: Same as starting point
Recommended Emergency Rendezvous Point: Same as starting point
Trail. Trail is marked off by colored tape.
Trail Map: 8.5 x 11 inch PDF (Full Color, Reduced Color), JPG (Full Color, Reduced Color).

Safety and Planning Considerations (Must Read!!!).

Time of year. Hiking any hilltop or mountain range in Okinawa will be challenging during the summer season. The most enjoyable time is during the colder months. If you do climb Awa during the warm/hot season it is guaranteed that your body will lose tremendous amounts of water....guaranteed. This is especially true during the first hour of the hike as you will trapped along with the heat contained by the forest jungle partway. Recommend you hydrate the day before and bring at least 4 liters of water with you, along with some nourishments to replenish the electrolytes in your body. Though Awa is nothing like climbing Mount Fuji in Japan, the heat will rip you apart. And because you have to bring large amounts of water and nourishments, this will add to the weight of your pack further wearing you down. You will probably know within the first hour of the hike if you think you can finish the entire loop. If at anytime you feel like that you cannot complete the entire loop, then turn back and try again at another time. Do not take this hike lightly.

Hours in the day. Because this entire loop takes about 5-6 hours, you have to make sure you leave yourself enough time to come back before dark. Departing in the morning is the best time.

Awa-dake Hiking Sequence. Please read the following hiking sequence. Part of this trail is shared by the trail that takes you to Furushi-dake. You can also print an 8.5 x 11 inch PDF/JPG trail map above to get an idea of the trail layout as you review the hiking sequence.

1. Parking. Park your car at the Katsuyama Community Center (Green Thumbtack above). This is important. Do not park near the trail's main entrance. This will make it difficult for farmers to bring in their equipment to attend their crops.
2. From the community center, you have to walk towards the main trail entrance that is designated  by this sign (see also trail map and the map above).
3. From the main entrance, you will be walking almost due north about 500 meters till you reach a juncture in the trail. Along this stretch, you will pass through orchards on both sides and then the trail slowly creeps into the jungle forest.
4. The trail juncture. Towards the end of the 500 meter stretch, you will be inside the forest jungle. You have to keep your eyes open for color tape tied around tree branches on both sides of the trail. There may be small wood signs directing you the way, but this may not always be the case. The trail juncture splits into three separate trails. The trail to the left takes you clockwise to Awa-dake, the trail in the middle takes you counter-clockwise to Awa-dake, and the trail to the right takes you to Furushi-dake.  As a personal recommendation, taking the Awa-trail clockwise will be more enjoyable.
5. The First Cave. You will run into the first cave within the hour if you take the trail clockwise. There is a wood sign next to it and says that it was used by the Japanese soldiers during World War II. The cave is actually a three level cave. You have to be very careful inside since the outer walls are very loose, and with all the ruble, there is potential of tripping and falling.
6. The Second Cave. Before you reach the first peak you may see a small wooden sign that points you to the second cave. This sign is small. Keep your eyes open for colored tape along the trail that deviates from the main trail. According to the Katsuyama district guide pamphlet this is the story behind the second cave:

Long ago, men who had once worked for the Shuri King came to live in the Katsuyama area. At first, the village people had welcomed them. Initially, the men from Shuri worked with the villagers, but later they became distraught and lazy. They had lost all motivation with their new life, and so they started pillaging from the people and even kidnapped some of the village women. They would hide up in this cave on the Awa mountain side and use it as a base to conduct their sinister activities. As a result, the villagers then concocted a plan that would scare off the bandits forever. In the dark of night, a great number of villagers had set flags on fire mimicking soldiers coming from the south. Out of fear, the bandits fled never to return. These bandits where known as the Sanzoku bandits and their leader was a man that went by the name Kochi Satonoshi (2).

7. The First Peak. The first peak takes about an hour and half to get to. This includes water and rest breaks along the way and the time you will spend exploring the caves.
8. The Second Peak. This is Awa-dake's summit. It is about another hour from the first peak.
9. The Return Trail. The trail continues past the second peak. The trail is not as distinct on this end, and you must keep your eyes open for color tape that marks the path back. It takes about another 1 and half hour to return to the starting point.

Recommended Guidelines (PLEASE READ!!!).
1. Age. Climbing is suitable for young adults who have good agility, mental awareness, and are physically fit. Parents must use their discretion on the ability of their children.
2. Wear shoes or boots that have good traction. Tennis shoes highly not recommended. 3. Snakes. Snakes, including habus, have been seen in this area. Be vigilant.
3. IMPORTANT!!! Bring plenty of water that will help you complete the 5-6 hour excursion. Recommend at least 4 liters of water and nourishments to replenish your electrolytes.
4. Tuck in all loose straps to include shoe laces to prevent getting snagged and tripping.
5. Highly recommend hiking gloves of some kind. You may be required to climb using your hands in some areas.
6. Base your clothing on the time of year and comfort level. It will get windy and cold on the top of the mountain during the colder months. Consider bring a light jacket.
7. Recommend a good hat for shade or cover up with a moist towel.
8. Bug repellent. Bring per your discretion.
9. Let someone know where you are going, and recommend a climbing buddy.

Notes/Source of Information.
1. Elevation was obtained from a Nago City sign board.
2. It is not sure what date this incident with the bandits had taken place, or why they had left Shuri Castle to begin with. Dates and reasons where not given. The name Kochi Satonishi may be incorrect due the translation and variation of the Kanji.

Directions/Parking. Take Highway 58 North and turn on to Highway 449 goings towards Motobu Town. About another 10 minutes later look for large street signs in English directing you to Mt. Katsuu (the Katsuyama Community Center is along this route). Look for the Katsuyama Community Center on the left. This is where you want to park. It will be across a white sign directing you to Mt. Katsuu. See map above for landmarks. Parking location is at GPS N 37.247 E 127 56.184.

Other Hiking Trails on Okinawa. Katsuu-dake, Furushi-dake, Motobu Fuji, Yonaha-dake.

"Furushi-dake"

The Rock Face at Furushi-dake

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Furushi-dake

     GPS

Latitude	Longitude
N 26 37.247	E 127 56.184

        *GPS to Parking Area



Furushi-dake

Just below Katsuu-dake (Mt. Katsuu) is its smaller sister, Furushi, whose summit blends in among the Katsuu landscape when viewed from a distance. The summit of Furushi-dake is more of a rounded hilltop than a pointy peak, and it's not her best feature — it's her rock face. This is what separates Furushi among her sister mountains in Okinawa. You will be on its edge..literally. The picture you see above (courtesy of Mikesryukyugallery.com) is of Mr. Map It! himself taking a little break near the rock's edge. If you love exploring and hiking, this area in Nago City is a great place for it. Part of the trail to Furushi is also shared by the trail that takes you up to Awa-dake, which sits across Furushi. Awa is an impressive mountain as well, taking about 5 hours to complete the entire Awa loop (next week's post will be on Awa-dake). See below for hiking instructions for Furushi-dake.

Summary Information.
Name: Furushi-dake
Elevation. 375 meters (1233 feet)(1)
Peak GPS Coordinate: GPS N26 37.711 E127 56.121
Rock Face GPS Coordinate: GPS N26 37.668 E127 56.070
Starting Point GPS Coordinate: GPS N 26 37.248 E 127 56.195 (Katsuyama Community Center)
Estimated Time to Peak: 1 – 2 hours (one way, includes visiting the Rock Face).
Parking Area Area: Same as starting point.
Recommended Emergency Rendezvous Point: Same as starting point.
Trail. Trail is marked off by colored tape.
Trail Map: 8.5 x 11 inch PDF (Full Color, Reduced Color), JPG (Full Color, Reduced Color).

Furushi-dake Hiking Sequence. Because the trail is not as straight forward like that of the trail going to Mt. Katsuu please read the following hiking sequence. You can also print an 8.5 x 11 inch PDF/JPG trail map above to get an idea of the trail layout as you review the hiking sequence.

1. Parking. Park your car at the Katsuyama Community Center (Green Thumbtack above). This is important. Do not park near the trail's main entrance. This will make it difficult for farmers to bring in their equipment to attend their crops.

2. From the community center, you have to walk towards the main trail entrance that is designated  by this sign (see also trail map and the map above).
3. From the main entrance, you will be walking almost due north about 500 meters till you reach a juncture in the trail. Along this stretch, you will pass through orchards on both sides and then the trail slowly creeps into the jungle forest.
4. The trail juncture. Towards the end of the 500 meter stretch, you will be inside the forest jungle. You have to keep your eyes open for color tape tied around tree branches on both sides of the trail. There may be small wood signs directing you the way, but this may not always be the case. The trail juncture splits into three separate trails. The trail to the left takes you clockwise to Awa-dake, the trail in the middle takes you counter-clockwise to Awa-dake, and the trail to the right takes you to Furushi-dake. (Note. If you wish to climb Awa-dake, it takes about 5-6 hours to hike the entire loop. You need to bring plenty of water and nourishments, especially during the warmer months of the year. See post on Awa-dake).
5. The Furushi-dake Rock Face. As you are hiking towards the Furushi summit, you will run into a T-intersection juncture. See photo here. Going right takes you to the Rock Face. Going left takes you to the summit.
6. Warning. The Rock Face is an impressive place to see but it does get really narrow and a little dangerous. You will see a wood sign that says “きけん” It just mean 'danger', and be on guard. From here you will be skirting a narrow trail along the edge of the rock face. You will have to hunch over many places along this part. Watch out for your head.
7. Warning. The narrow ledge. There is a part along the rock face that you have to climb a little to continue further. The trail ends about 40 meters later so it is not necessary to proceed ahead. It can be little nerve-racking at this point. The view is already impressive enough before this point. It is recommended that only a few people at a time proceed ahead as the entire ledge is narrow. Please see this YouTube Video to get a preview of what to expect at this juncture. For your comfort level, you may want to bring a carabiner and a safety harness. It is also recommended that you climb on and down from the ledge on your stomach. This will keep your center of gravity low and you will have more stability on the surface.

Recommended Guidelines (PLEASE READ!!!).
1. Age. Climbing is suitable for young adults who have good agility, mental awareness, and are physically fit. Parents must use their discretion on the ability of their children. Do not recommend bringing children to the Rock Face, but that is the parent's discretion.
2. Greatest dangers are tripping and falling. Wear shoes or boots that have good traction. Tennis shoes may be too slippery on some rock surfaces.
3. Snakes. Snakes, including habus, have been seen in this area. Be vigilant.
4. For your comfort level, you may want to bring a carabiner and a safety harness (Rock Face only).
5. Tuck in all loose straps to include shoe laces to prevent getting snagged and tripping.
6. Highly recommend hiking gloves of some kind. You may be required to climb using your hands in some areas.
7. Base your clothing on the time of year and comfort level. For this particular trail there are no specifics for attire.
8. Bring plenty of water and nourishments.
9. Recommend a good hat for shade or cover up with a moist towel.
10. Bug repellent. Bring per your discretion.
11. Let someone know where you are going, and recommend a climbing buddy.

Notes/Source of Information.
1. Elevation calculated at http://www.daftlogic.com/sandbox-google-maps-find-altitude.htm. This is not an official Nago City measurement. Official measurement can not be acquired at this time.

Directions/Parking. Take Highway 58 North and turn on to Highway 449 goings towards Motobu Town. About another 10 minutes later look for large street signs in English directing you to Mt. Katsuu (the Katsuyama Community Center is along this route). Look for the Katsuyama Community Center on the left. This is where you want to park. It will be across a white sign directing you to Mt. Katsuu. See map above for landmarks. Parking location is at GPS N 37.247 E 127 56.184.

Other Hiking Trails on Okinawa. Awa-dake, Katsuu-dake, Motobu Fuji, Yonaha-dake.